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Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.

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Ferdinand Gregorovius' Walks - Alatri

Gregorovius found Alatri a very rich town in comparison with Ferentino. The 1863 map I use to illustrate the itineraries of this section, clearly indicates that Alatri was at that time the most important town in the area (today Frosinone is more important). The wealth of Alatri came from wool and felt-hat factories. He saw many recent buildings and even a fountain which showed the prosperity of Alatri.

Palazzo Comunale and Chiesa dei Padri Scolopi
Palazzo Comunale and Chiesa dei Padri Scolopi

The most interesting church in Alatri is S. Maria Maggiore, known in particular for its fine rose-window which quite unusually is designed around a square. On the side of the church one can see an inscription with the coat of arms of Pope Bonifatius IX (1389-1404): the reference to the pope (keys of St Peter) is separate from the family coat of arms.

S. Maria Maggiore
S. Maria Maggiore

Alatri has a few interesting medieval buildings, some of them in the form of a tower. Gregorovius was very highly impressed by the colossal walls which surround the acropolis of Alatri and wrote that he admired these walls as an example of human strength more than the Colosseum in Rome. The area around the acropolis had been cleaned just a few years before Gregorovius visited it. On the occasion of the visit of Pope Gregorius XVI, the citizens of Alatri had all worked for ten days to clean the walls and build an access to the upper part of the acropolis.

Palazzo Gottifredo and inscription quoting Gregorovius
Palazzo Gottifredo and inscription quoting Gregorovius

The colossal walls of Alatri are made by layers of gigantic stones: at some points there are up to 14 layers of stones. There are only two accesses to the top of the acropolis.

The Colossal Walls and Porta Civita or Maggiore
The Colossal Walls and Porta Civita or Maggiore

One of the two gates has still on the top two phallic symbols: these symbols were very common on Roman gates and they meant good luck for those who went through the gates. From the top of the acropolis one has an excellent view over the Ernici Mountains.

Porta Minore and view from the Acropolis
Porta Minore and view from the Acropolis

Gregorovius ends his account by describing a visit to nearby Certosa di Trisulti, a Carthusian monastery where he spent a night.

Introductory page on Ferdinand Gregorovius
Ferentino

Other walks:

The Roman Campagna:
Palestrina
Genazzano
Paliano
Anagni

The Volsci Mountains:
Valmontone
Segni
Norma
Cori

On the Latin shores:
Anzio
Nettuno and Torre Astura

Circe's Cape:
Terracina
San Felice

The Orsini Castle in Bracciano

Subiaco, the oldest Benedictine monastery