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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.

To the Italian visitors of my web site

Rione XIII Trastevere

Trastevere is a corruption of trans Tiberim (beyond the Tiber). Ancient Rome was founded on seven hills located on the left bank of the Tiber. The right bank (trans Tiberim) belonged to the Etruscans and most likely to the town of Veius (today Isola Farnese). A famous episode of early Roman history makes reference to the defence of Rome which took place on the timber bridge which crossed the river (Ponte Sublicio). Only after the defeat of Veius and the expansion of the Roman rule to most of Central Italy did the right bank of the river become an area of stable Roman settlements. However only in 275 AD Trastevere was included by the emperor Aureliamus in the pomerium (the city border) of Rome and it was protected by walls. In the XVIIth century Pope Urban VIII redesigned the borders of Trastevere by building new walls which included in the rione most of the Janiculum hill.
Trastevere borders to the north on Rione Borgo, to the east on the Tiber, to the south and the west on the walls of Rome. In the XVIIIth century the area near the river was highly populated while the Janiculum was split into several villas.
For a map of the Roman quarters (Rioni) click here.

Coat of arms
Coat of arms of Rione Trastevere

The symbol of Rione Trastevere is a lion's head.
Trastevere does not have imposing ruins of ancient Rome: at that time its inhabitants were mainly foreigners: ruins of a Syrian temple have been found in Villa Sciarra; traces of a sanctuary dedicated to the mysterious cult of Bona Dea have been found near S. Giovanni Battista dei Genovesi. The Roman walls are almost completely lost. In the XIXth century the excavation of Roman barracks near S. Grisogono showed that in the past the level of the ground near the river was some 20 ft lower than it is today.
Medieval Trastevere can still be found in the streets near S. Benedetto in Piscinula. The main church of Trastevere, S. Maria in Trastevere has fine medieval mosaics. One of the jewels of the Renaissance can be found in Tempietto del Bramante in S. Pietro in Montorio. In the early XVIIth century Trastevere got once again an ample supply of water. Pope Paul V reactivated an ancient Roman aqueduct. The fountain built to celebrate this achievement (Mostra dell'Acqua Paola) is the most imposing monument of Trastevere. Palazzo Corsini and its gardens are the most interesting XVIIIth century addition to the rione.

Roman inscriptions of the lost temple of Dea Bona now in the walls of Conservatorio di S. Pasquale di Baylon, 
XVIIIth century madonnella near S. Maria della Visitazione and a modern shop sign showing the symbol of Trastevere
Roman inscriptions of the lost sanctuary of Bona Dea now in the walls of Conservatorio di S. Giovanni di Baijlon, XVIIIth century madonnella near S. Maria della Visitazione and a (modern) antiques shop sign showing the symbol of Trastevere

In today's Rome the sense of belonging to a certain rione has since long disappeared: less than 5% of today's inhabitants of Rome live in the 14 historical rioni, but Trastevere is no doubt an exception. Its inhabitants believe to be "Romani de' Roma", true Romans and many associations try to keep alive old traditions including a yearly fair (La Festa de' Noantri). That's why many shops show the symbol of the rione.

Rione Trastevere
1777 Map of Rione Trastevere

Legend:
1) S. Benedetto in Piscinula
2) S. Salvatore a Ponte Rotto
3) Casino di Donna Olimpia
4) S. Cecilia
5) Ospizio di S. Michele a Ripa
6) S. Francesco a Ripa
7) S. Maria dell'Orto
8) S. Salvatore della Corte
9) S. Grisogono
10) S. Gallicano
11) S. Maria in Trastevere
12) SS. Cosmo e Damiano
13) Villa Spada
14) Porta S. Pancrazio
15) Acqua Paola
16) S. Pietro in Montorio
17) Bosco degli Arcadi
18) S. Maria della Scala
19) S. Giovanni della Malva
20) S. Giacomo alla Lungara
21) Regina Coeli
22) S. Maria della Visitazione
23) S. Onofrio
24) Porta S. Spirito

Rione Trastevere Porta S. Spirito Cimitero di S. Spirito Conservatorio del Padre Bussi Sant'Onofrio Teatro all'aperto al Gianicolo Palazzo Salviati S. Giuseppe Villa Alibert S. Maria della Visitazione S. Giacomo alla Lungara SS. Croce Palazzo Corsini Palazzino Farnese Giardino del Palazzo Corsini Palazzo Lanti Porta Settimiana Casino Farnese Porta S. Pancrazio Villa Spada Acqua Paola Villino Giraud S. Pietro in Montorio S. Maria della Scala S. Maria dei Sette Dolori Fabbrica del Tabacco Bosco degli Arcadi Cartiera S. Dorotea S. Giovanni della Malva Ponte Sisto S. Egidio Palazzo Velli S. Maria in Trastevere Palazzo di S. Callisto S. Callisto S. Apollonia S. Margherita Palazzo Leopardi Palazzo Leoni S. Rufina S. Gallicano S. Agata Torre degli Anguillara S. Grisogono Nuova Fabbrica del Tabacco S. Benedetto in Piscinula S. Andrea dei Vascellari S. Giovanni dei Genovesi S. Maria dell'Orto S. Salvatore della Corte S. Cecilia Casa di Ettore Fieramosca S. Salvatore a Ponte Rotto S. Pasquale S. Francesco a Ripa S. Cosimato Villa Sciarra S. Maria in Cappella Casino di Donna Olimpia Ospizio di S. Michele Porta Portese
Main monuments of Rione Trastevere

The red lines in the map show the major changes which occurred after 1777:
a) the long line along the river shows the redesign of the bank in the 1880s: this led to the loss of some churches in Via della Lungara, of most of Giardino Farnese and of S. Salvatore a Ponte Rotto;
b) line across the river and into Trastevere: in 1887 a new bridge (Ponte Garibaldi) and a large avenue (today Viale Trastevere) created a new traffic axis which cut the rione into two parts.

The different colours group the monuments which are shown in the same page (the list includes a few minor monuments omitted in the map).

Name(key)ColourNotes
-Porta S. Spirito-
-Cimitero di S. SpiritoLost
-Conservatorio del Padre Bussi (Palazzo Giori)-
Chiesa di S. Onofrio-
Cappella della Madonna del Rosario-
-Teatro all'aperto del Gianicolo-
Palazzo Salviati-
Chiesa di S. Giuseppe-
Palazzo Corsini-
Villa Alibert-
Chiesa di S. Maria della Visitazione (o S. Francesco di Sales)-
Chiesa di S. Giacomo alla Lungara-
Chiesa della SS. Croce-
-Giardino di Palazzo Corsini-
Palazzina Farnese-
Palazzo Lanti al Gianicolo-
Chiesa del Sacro Cuore di Gesł-
Casino Farnese al Gianicolo-
-Ponte Sisto-
Chiesa di S. Dorotea-.
Chiesa di S. Giovanni della Malva-
-Porta Settimiana-
Chiesa di S. Maria dei Sette Dolori-
-Fabbrica del Tabacco-
-Bosco degli Arcadi-
-Cartiera Sanpieri-
Chiesa di S. Maria della Scala-
-Acqua Paola-
Chiesa di S. Pietro in Montorio-
Casino Giraud-
-Porta S. Pancrazio-
Villa Spada-
Chiesa di S. Maria in Trastevere-
Palazzo S. Callisto-
Chiesa di S. Callisto-
Chiesa di S. Egidio-
Oratorio del SS. Sacramento-
Palazzo Velli-
Chiesa di S. ApolloniaLost
Chiesa di S. Margherita-
Chiesa di SS. Rufina e Seconda-
Palazzo Leoni-
Palazzo Leopardi-
Chiesa di S. Gallicano-
Chiesa di S. Grisogono-
Chiesa di S. Agata in Trastevere-
-Nuova Fabbrica del Tabacco-
-Torre Anguillara-
Chiesa di S. Pasquale-
Chiesa di S. Francesco a Ripa-
Chiesa di S. Cosimato-
Villa Sciarra-
Chiesa di S. Giovanni Battista dei Genovesi-
Chiesa di S. Salvatore della Corte-
-Arco dei Tolomei-
Chiesa di S. Maria dell'Orto-
-Spedale di S. Maria dell'Orto-
Chiesa di S. Benedetto in PiscinulaWith monuments of Ripa.
Casa di Sir John LeslieWith monuments of Ripa.
Chiesa di S. Andrea dei VascellariDeconsecrated.
Chiesa di S. Salvatore a Ponte RottoLost
Casa di Ettore Fieramosca-
Chiesa di S. Cecilia-
Chiesa di S. Maria in CappellaWith monuments of Ripa.
Casino di Donna OlimpiaWith monuments of Ripa.
-Ospizio di S. Michele (Porto di Ripa Grande)-
-Porta Portese-

You can have a tour of Rione Trastevere by following the itinerary (Day 6) suggested by Giuseppe Vasi: first step S. Benedetto in Piscinula.
You can also have a very close look at it from the Janiculum: S. Spirito in Sassia, S. Giovanni dei Fiorentini, Carceri Nuove, S. Eligio degli Orefici, Palazzo Farnese, Ponte Sisto, la Renella, S. Sabina, S. Maria in Trastevere, S. Pietro in Montorio, Acqua Paola and S. Maria dei Sette Dolori.
You may also attend the Procession of Madonna de Noantri.

I - MontiII - Trevi
III - ColonnaIV - Campo Marzio
V - PonteVI - Parione
VII - RegolaVIII - Sant'Eustachio
IX - PignaX - Campitelli
XI - Sant'AngeloXII - Ripa
XIII - TrastevereXIV - Borgo