Rome in the Footsteps of an XVIIIth Century Traveller

Fynes Moryson (1566-1630) was a brave young man. In 1594 he visited Rome when heretics were burned at the stake, and Naples when England was at war with Spain.
Fynes Moryson was born in 1566, two years after the birth of Shakespeare. He was the third son of Thomas Moryson (..) who was M.P. for Great Grimsby in the Parliaments of 1572, 1584, 1586, 1588-9. (..) Fynes Moryson was sent to Cambridge and, being a student of Peterhouse, took his Bachelor's Degree at the age of 18. (..) Moryson had for some years an ambition to be a traveller, and the statutes of Peterhouse permitted two of the Fellows to travel. His parents had given their consent, and he deliberately prepared himself for the task of surveying the different countries of Europe. Many young Englishmen of good family had a craving for travel, and it was especially their custom to visit the Italian Universities. Moryson, however, seems from the first to have had special aims, and to have resolved to write an account of Europe, to make, in fact, a sociological survey of the civilised world of his time. (..) Moryson took great trouble to learn the German, Italian and French languages, that he could not only speak but write them, and that he also spoke and wrote Latin with facility. Indeed, all the accounts of his travels were written in Latin as he records on the title-page of his printed volume, and he evidently hoped to publish his book in the universal language. (..) Before his departure from Rome he "interviewed" Cardinal Bellarmine (..) to whom he told that he was a Frenchman and came to Rome for performance of some religious vowes. (..) It must not be supposed that he indulged in these mystifications without very good reason. He was willing to take a little risk for the pleasure of coming into personal contact with a great man, but as an English Protestant he was in constant peril of the clutches of the Inquisition. (..) In July, 1597, he closed his long course of Continental travel. (..) In 1609 he settled down to the fulfilment of his original ambition, the writing of a "magnum opus" giving a survey of Europe and of the peoples of Europe. (..) From 1609 to 1617, when the Itinerary appeared, Moryson tells us: "I wrote at leasure giving (like a free and unhired workman) much time to pleasure, to necessary affaires, and to divers and long distractions. If you consider this, and withall remember that the work is first written in Latine, then translated into English, and that in divers Copies, no man being able by the first Copie to put so large a worke in good fashion. And if you will please also take knowledge from me that to save expences, I wrote the greatest part with my owne hand, and almost all the rest with the slowe pen of my servant: then I hope the loss of time shall not be imputed to me."
Charles Hughes - Preface to "The Unpublished Chapters of Fynes Moryson's Itinerary" - 1903
Excerpts from "An Itinerary: Containing His Ten Years Travel Through the Twelve Dominions of Germany, Bohemia, Switzerland, Netherland, Denmark, Poland, Italy, Turkey, France, England, Scotland and Ireland" which are related to Rome.

• Scala Santa
• Cardinal Allen, the founder of Collegio Inglese
• Layout of Papal Rome
• Ponte Sisto
• Ponte Cestio
• Ponte Fabrizio e Ponte Rotto
• Ponte Sublicio
• S. Sabina
• Monte Testaccio
• Floods of the Tiber
• The Seven Churches
• Chapel of the Manger at S. Maria Maggiore
• S. Paolo fuori le Mura
• Palazzo Apostolico
• Piramide di Caio Cestio
• Circus Maximus
• Settizodio
• Pantheon
• Villa Medici
• Villa Giulia
• Mostra dell'Acqua Felice
• Santa Costanza
• End of the Visit

Scala Santa Therefore according to the fashion, I agreed with a Vetturine at Rome, for forty foure Giulii to give me a horse to Naples, and to pay for my diet and horsemeat. (..) When we went out of Rome, our consorts suddenly in a broad street lighted from their horses, and gave them to the Vetturines to hold, and so went themselves to the Holy staires, vulgarly called Le scale sante, that they might there pray for a happy journey; at which time my selfe and my consorts slipped into the next Church, and going in at one doore, and out at the other, escaped the worshipping of those holy staires, and at fit time came to take our horses with the rest. They say that these staires were the same which Christ ascended in Pilates house at Jerusalem, and that they were from thence brought to Rome: and indeed at Jerusalem the place of them lies void, so as I would in this much rather beleeve the Romans, then in the transportation of the Chamber at Loreto, which they would have done by the Angels, and that often and at unseasonable times, whereas in so many voyages into Palestine it was not difficult to bring these staires from thence. Yet they being of marble, and very rich, I would faine know how such a monument could be preserved, when Jerusalem was destroied. And if they say they belonged to that house of Pilate, which they shew at this day, I dare be bold to affirme that the magnificence of these staires is nothing answerable to the poore building of that house.

Cardinal Allen, the founder of Collegio Inglese We returned to Rome, where that I might stay with more security, see the antiquities thereof, it hapned very fitly, that the Cardinall Allan (William Allen) an Englishman, having used to persecute the English comming thither, and therefore being ill spoken of by them, had changed his mind, since the English had overthrowne the Spanish Navy, in the yeere 1588 and there was now small hope of reducing England to papistry, and therefore to gaine his Countrey-mens love, did not onely mislike that they should be intrapped at Rome, but did himselfe protect them, though suspected for religion, so they would seeke his favour: whereof I being advertised by the experience of others, when I had in silence, and through many dangers seene Naples subject to the King of Spaine, and was now returned to Rome, I presently went to the said Cardinall, and after the fashion, having kissed the hemme of his vesture, I humbly desired, that according to this his curtesie, for which hee was much honoured in England, hee would receive mee into his protection, till I might view the antiquities of Rome. With a grave looke and pleasant speech he bad me rest secure, so I could commaund my tongue, and should abstaine from offence. Onely for his duties sake, hee said, that he must advise me, and for the love of his Countrey intreate me, that I would be willing to heare those instructions for religion here, which I could not heare in England. I submitted my selfe to these conditions.

Layout of Papal Rome If you draw a line from the East-side of the Mountaine Capitolino to the Gate del popolo, lying towards the North; and from the said Mountaine draw a line to the furthest part of the Bridge upon the West side of the Iland of Tyber, this compasse may truly be called Rome, as at this day it is inhabited; for the rest lies wilde, having only ruines, and some scattered Churches and houses, and towards the South, fieldes of corne within the walles.

Ponte Sisto The bridges of Ancient Rome: The fourth bridge is called Ponte Sisto of Pope Sixtus the fourth, who repaired it. It was of old called Janiculensis of that Mount, and Aurelius of the way of that name, and it was built of marble by Antoninus Pius, and after being decaied, was long called Ponte Rotto, that is, the broken bridge, till the said Pope repaired it in the yeere I475 and it is two hundred and fifteene foote broad, and is built upon three Arches of stone.

Ponte Cestio The seventh bridge of Ancient Rome of a Church neere it is called di S. Bartolomeo, and it is opposite to the fifth bridge, and joineth the Iland with that part of Rome called Trastevere, and of old it was called Esquilinus, and Cestius, and it is sixty foot long, having but one Arch of stone.

Ponte Fabrizio e Ponte Rotto The fifth ancient bridge joining Rome and the Iland, and next to the Capitolium, is called Ponte di quattro Capi, and was of old called Tarpeius, of the Rocke Tarpeia, which is in the Mount Capitolino, and was called Fabricius of the repairer, and it is seventy foot long, and hath but one (!) Arch of stone. (..) The sixth ancient bridge of a Church neere it is called di S. Maria Egittiaca, and was of old called Senatorius and Palatinus, and it is somewhat longer then the bridge Sisto.

Ponte Sublicio The eight ancient bridge at the foot of the Mount Aventine, was of old called Sublicius, because it was built of wood, in the warre with the Tuscanes, that it might be more easily broken and repaired. And we read that the Tuscanes being Victors, had taken Rome, if Horatius Cocles had not defended the bridge, till it was broken downe behind him, which done, he saved himselfe by swimming. After that Emilius Lepidus built this bridge of stone, and called it Emilius; and when it was broken with floods, first the Emperour Tyberius repaired it, and then Antoninus Pius built it very high of marble, and condemned men were cast from it into the water. (..) At the foot of Mount Aventine, (where the Jewes use to fish) if you looke backe, you shall see the ruines of the old bridge Sublicius

S. Sabina I saw Saint Sabina upon Mount Aventine (in which they shew a stone cast by the Divell at the head of Saint Dominicke, and broken by miracle).

Monte Testaccio In the pleasant meadow wherein the mount Testaceus lies, the Romans were wont of old to keepe their Olimpike games.

Floods of the Tiber Rome at this day is troubled with the old overflowings of Tyber, by reason of the Tybers narrow bed, not able to receive the waters, falling suddenly from neere mountaines, after great raine or melting of snow. For memory whereof, these inscriptions are upon the wals of the Church of Saint Mary sopra Minerva. In the yeere 1530. (if I be not deceived; for the first words are raced out) the Ides of October, Clement the seventh being Pope. Huc Tyber ascendit, jamque obruta tota fuisset Roma, nisi celerem virgo tulisset opem: Thus farre came Tyber, and all Rome had drown'd, Had we not from the Virgin, swift helpe found. And there in another place this verse is written, in the yeere MVD. Extulit huc tumidas turbidus Amnis aquas. Thus farre this muddy brookes water did swell. In each place is a red marke upon the wals how high the water ascended, by which it appeares, marking the seat of the Church, that all the plaine was overflowed betweene it and the Tyber.

The Seven Churches Now being to describe the antiquities of Rome, I will first set downe out of order the seven Churches, famous for the indulgences of Popes, which they say were built by the Emperour Constantine the Great. (..) The first day being to visit these seven Churches, by reason of their distance, and the hast we made, I and my consorts hired each of us a mule, each man for two paoli, and we never found our errour till the evening, when we demanding the way of a man of meane sort, he replied thus with some anger; What doe you ride to heaven, and we poore wretches goe on foote without shooes to visit these holy Churches. By this we found our errour, and were glad that we had passed that day without further danger.

Chapel of the Manger at S. Maria Maggiore This Maggiore Church is adorned with forty pillars of Marble. The rich Chappell di presepio, (so called of the cratch in which Christ was borne, being kept here) is stately adorned with the pavement engraved, the arched roofe guilded, pictures Alla Mosaica as if they were engraven, the stately sepulcher of Pope Nicholas, and his statua of white marble.

S. Paolo fuori le Mura The Church of St. Paul (..) stands uppon eighty eight pillars of marble, in foure rowes, each pillar being but one stone, and it is adorned with marble staires, and pictures Alla Mosaica, as if they were engraven, which are onely in the chancell and neere the doore.

Palazzo Apostolico The Pallace is of great circuit, and the staires are so easie, that Horses and Mules may goe up to the top of the Mountaine, and with easie ascent and descent beare the Popes carriage. At the enterance there be three galleries one above the other, whereof the two first were built by Leo the tenth, and Paul the third, and the third and highest by Sixtus Quintus, and they are all fairely painted and guilded. Upon these lie two large chambers, and beyond them is a vast and long gallery of foure hundred seventie and one walking paces, in the middest whereof is the famous Librarie of the Popes and therein are many inscriptions of the Pope Sixtus Quintus who repaired it, and it is adorned with many faire pictures guilded all over. (..) Upon the other side of the said Library is the private Gallery of the Pope, looking into the Garden Belvedere, which is seated upon the side of the Mount Vatican, where Pope Innocent the eight built part of the Pallace, and called it Belvedere, of the faire prospect of all Rome subject to the eye. And Pope Julius the second placed in this Garden many very faire statuaes.

Piramide di Caio Cestio The sepulcher of Caius Cestius is most ancient, rising in a pyramis, and the inscription shewes it was built in three hundred and thirty daies, which the common sort falsly thinkes to be the Monument of Romulus. This monument of stone is compassed with wals, and it hath an inscription in great letters, but raced out.

Circus Maximus From the gate of Saint Paul we returned into the City, and under the Church of Saint Gregory, where Laundresses continually wash, they say that of old the Circus Maximus, (or greatest Theater) did lie betweene the Mount Palatine and the Mount Aventine, being more then a quarter of a mile long, and halfe a quarter broad, which was built by Tarquinius Priscus for the hunting of Buls, and running of Horses, and after was inlarged by Julius Caesar and other Emperours, so as it received 260 thousand beholders, being adorned with pillars and commodious seates, and at this day the place is called Cerchi

Settizodio Neere the Circus were of late three rowes of pillars, one above the other; and this monument is called Il Settizonio di Severe, of seven souldiers engraved thereupon, and is thought to be the sepulcher of Septtimius Severus, but the Pope Sixtus the fifth pulled it downe.

Pantheon The Church of Saint Mary Rotonda, was of old called Pantheon, and the building is most ancient and magnificent, being round in forme, & having no window, but all the light comming from the open roofe, whence the water falling is convaied under the pavement, and it is about seventy walking paces large every way. The porch is borne up with fifteene marble pillars, each pillar being of one stone, and all of admirable beauty and bignes. The doore is of brasse, the wals of brick, with the inside covered with precious stones, and the pavement is of marble and porphery.

Villa Medici We did see the Pallace of the Florentine Cardinall de Medicis (who from a Cardinal became the Duke of Florence by right of succession). And this Pallace was rich & stately, the staires winding so artificially, as it was a beautiful sight to look in a perpendicular line from the top to the foot, and upon the staires was a faire statua of Apollo. Hence there was a Gallery open on the sides towards the Garden, full of beautifull Images, of Lions, a shee-Wolfe, a Ramme, all of white Marble, with other Images, and very faire pillars. And the first Garden had onely flowers; the second in the upper part, had a sweete Grove, and the lower part was full of fruit trees. There was a Fountaine with a brasen Image of Mercuric upon it. Upon a Mount called Pernasso, were many Images of white Marble, of Pegasus, of the Muses, and one of Cleopatra, fairer then that I saw in the Popes Garden, with two Images of Cerberus, and another monster. There were two large Cesternes of Porphery. And in a Chamber were the Images, of a Satyr, a Nimph, and a Gryphon. Lastly, in the Grove were staires paved with carved Marble, with figures of fishes, and there was a most faire statua of Europa sitting upon a Bulles backe. The outside of the Grove was all of Firre trees, which are greene in winter, but the inside had most pleasant walkes among rowes of many other kindes of trees. In this Grove was a most sweete Arbour, having foure roofes, and as it were chambers, one above the other, the first whereof is twentie staires from the ground, whence lay a most large and most faire Gallery of stone, under which was a most pleasant solitarie walke, betweene two walles, all set with Orange trees, and like fruit.

Villa Giulia Neere it lies the most sweete Vineyard of Pope Julius the third, and his pleasant Fountaine, casting up water two elles high.

Mostra dell'Acqua Felice On this Mount is the most faire Fountaine of Pope Sixtus the fifth, called the Happie; for hither is the water brought from the stately Conduit without the Gate Maggiore, reaching many miles, which was built by Pope Sixtus the fifth, with Imperiall magnificence, in the yeere 1587. And this Fountaine casteth out waters from the mouthes of foure Lions of white Marble. Likewise upon the same is the Image of Moses, striking the Rocke with his Rod; and there be two other mouthes lower to cast out water, and it is all engraven with the said historie of Moses.

Santa Costanza The Church Saint Costanza, is a long mile out of the gate Pia and was of old dedicated to Bacchus, where is a most faire sepulcher and large, of porphry, ten ordinary spannes deepe, and fifteene long, curiously engraven with boyes quaffing, and bearing cups of wine, as in a Feast of Bacchus, which some thinke to be the sepulcher of Constantia a Virgine, daughter to Constantine, but the engraving like a Feast of Bacchus seemes more ancient, and to be wrought by the Heathen Romans, and it is vulgarly called the sepulcher of Bacchus. This Church is of a round forme and little, but very faire, and borne up with twelve rowes of marble pillars, set in a round compasse.

End of the Visit I had purposed to see the famous Garden of the Cardinall of Ferraria at Tivoli, (whereof I spake in my journey to Naples:) but Easter was now at hand, and the Priests came to take our names in our lodging, and when wee demaunded the cause, they told us, that it was to no other end, but to know if any received not the Communion at that holy time, which when we heard, wee needed no spurres to make haste from Rome into the state of Florence.

Travellers covered in this section

• Introductory page
• Gregory Martin's "Roma Sancta", a description of Christian Rome in 1581
• Fynes Moryson's An Itinerary: Containing His Ten Years Travel .. in Italy .. in 1594
• John Evelyn's Diary and Correspondence related to his stay in Rome in 1644
• Francis Mortoft's Journal of his travels in France and Italy in 1659
• John Ray's Observations (..) made in a journey through part of (..) Italy in 1663
• Richard Lassels' The Voyage of Italy, or a Compleat Journey through Italy in ca 1668
• Joseph Addison's Remarks on several parts of Italy, in the years 1701, 1702, 1703
• Jonathan and Jonathan Richardson's Account of Some of the Statues, etc. in Italy - 1722
• Edward Wright's Observations made in France, Italy &c. in the years 1720, 1721 and 1722.
• Excerpts from John Dyer's The Ruins of Rome written in 1740
• Thomas Gray's Letters from France and Italy in 1739-1741
• James Boswell's Letters on the Grand Tour in 1765
• Tobias Smollett's Travels through France and Italy in 1765
• John Moore's View of Society and Manners in Italy (in 1775) - publ. 1781
• John Chetwode Eustace's Classical Tour of Italy (in 1802) - publ. 1813
• Joseph Forsyth's Remarks on Antiquities, Arts, and Letters in Italy in 1802-1803
• John Cam Hobhouse's Dissertations on the Ruins of Rome in 1818
• Henry Matthews' Diary of an Invalid (in 1817-1818)
• Anna Jameson's Diary of an Ennuyée (in 1821-1822) - publ. 1826
• William Hazlitt's Notes of a Journey Through France and Italy in 1824-1825
• Samuel Rogers' Italy - publ. in 1830 with illustrations by J.M. William Turner
• Hans Christian Andersen's The Improvisatore - 1834 (Engl. translation 1845)
• George Stillman Hillard's Six Months in Italy in ca 1847-1848

Read What Dante Saw.
Read What Goethe Saw.
Read What Lord Byron Saw.
Read What Charles Dickens Saw.
Read What Henry James Saw.
Read What Mark Twain Saw.
Read What William Dean Howells Saw.
Read Dan Brown's Spaghetti Bolognaise (excerpts from Angels and Demons)