Rome in the Footsteps of an XVIIIth Century Traveller

Fynes Moryson (1566-1630) was a brave young man. In 1594 he visited Rome when heretics were burned at the stake, and Naples when England was at war with Spain.
Fynes Moryson was born in 1566, two years after the birth of Shakespeare. He was the third son of Thomas Moryson (..) who was M.P. for Great Grimsby in the Parliaments of 1572, 1584, 1586, 1588-9. (..) Fynes Moryson was sent to Cambridge and, being a student of Peterhouse, took his Bachelor's Degree at the age of 18. (..) Moryson had for some years an ambition to be a traveller, and the statutes of Peterhouse permitted two of the Fellows to travel. His parents had given their consent, and he deliberately prepared himself for the task of surveying the different countries of Europe. Many young Englishmen of good family had a craving for travel, and it was especially their custom to visit the Italian Universities. Moryson, however, seems from the first to have had special aims, and to have resolved to write an account of Europe, to make, in fact, a sociological survey of the civilised world of his time. (..) Moryson took great trouble to learn the German, Italian and French languages, that he could not only speak but write them, and that he also spoke and wrote Latin with facility. Indeed, all the accounts of his travels were written in Latin as he records on the title-page of his printed volume, and he evidently hoped to publish his book in the universal language. (..) He joined forces with his brother and he set out from London in November 1595. They travelled overland to Venice, and there took ship for Joppa. Thence they proceeded to Jerusalem, and after spending ten days there returned to Joppa and sailed to Tripoli. At Tripoli they left the sea and went by land to Aleppo and on to Antioch. Near Antioch Henry Moryson died of dysentery, and Fynes had also a severe attack of illness. Fynes then returned home by way of Crete, Constantinople and Venice. (..) In July, 1597, he closed his long course of Continental travel. (..) In 1609 he settled down to the fulfilment of his original ambition, the writing of a "magnum opus" giving a survey of Europe and of the peoples of Europe. (..) From 1609 to 1617, when the Itinerary appeared, Moryson tells us: "I wrote at leasure giving (like a free and unhired workman) much time to pleasure, to necessary affaires, and to divers and long distractions. If you consider this, and withall remember that the work is first written in Latine, then translated into English, and that in divers Copies, no man being able by the first Copie to put so large a worke in good fashion. And if you will please also take knowledge from me that to save expences, I wrote the greatest part with my owne hand, and almost all the rest with the slowe pen of my servant: then I hope the loss of time shall not be imputed to me."
Charles Hughes - Preface to "The Unpublished Chapters of Fynes Moryson's Itinerary" - 1903
Excerpts from "An Itinerary: Containing His Ten Years Travel Through the Twelve Dominions of Germany, Bohemia, Switzerland, Netherland, Denmark, Poland, Italy, Turkey, France, England, Scotland and Ireland" which are related to his 1596-1597 travel to the Levant. Read the excerpts about his stay in Rome.

• Cefalonia
• Site of the Battle of Lepanto
• Joppa
• The Holy Sepulchre
• Centre of the World
• Franciscan Friars of Jerusalem
• Tripoli of Syria
• Hama
• Marrah
• Traffic of Aleppo
• Candia
• Santorini
• Chios
• Troy
• Galata
• Hagia Sophia
• Yedikule
• Price of European Slaves
• Abydos
• Zante
• Turkish pirates of Santa Maura
• Corfu

Cefalonia May 1596. On Wednesday early in the morning, wee entered a narrow Sea, some two miles broad, having Cephalonia the lesse on the North side (Lixouri), and the greater Cephalonia on the South side (Argostoli), and wee cast anchor neere a desart Rocke (where of old there was an Universitie), and many of us, in our boat (sent with Mariners to cut wood, and take fresh water), did go on land in the greater Cepholania, to refresh our selves, and to wash our bodies in the Sea water: but wee duri not goe farre from our Marriners, lest the inhabitants of those woodie Mountaines should offer us violence. Both the Islands are subject to Venice, and abound with wines and small Currends, and in time of warre the Inhabitants retire to a Fort, built there by the Venetians, to be safe from the Turks. The Venetians every third yeere chuse some of their Gentlemen, to be sent hether for Governour and Officers.

Site of the Battle of Lepanto The eight of May 1596, towards the evening, we set saile, and before darke night passed by the Promontary, called the Cape of Cepholania, and did see on the North side the Islands Corsolari some ten miles distant, where the Navy of the Pope, King of Spaine, and Venetians confederate, having Don John of Austria, base brother to King Phillip of Spaine for their Generall, obtained a noble Victorie in the yeere 1571 against the Navy of the Turkes, the Christians hiding there many of their Gallies, that the Turkes comming out of the Gulfe of Corinth (now called the Gulfe of Lepanto) might despise their number, and so be more easily drawne to fight.

Joppa Upon Friday being the last of May 1596, after two miles saile, we entered the Haven of Joppa. (..) The City of Joppa, mentioned in the scriptures, had some ruines of wals standing, which shewed the old circuit thereof, but had not so much as any ruines of houses; onely we did see the exactors of tribute come out of two ruinous Towers, and some ragged Arabians and Turkes, lying (with their goods) within certaine caves, who also slept there, or in the open aire. (..) The Haven is of little compasse, but safe for small Barkes, and was of old compassed with a bricke wall, the ruines whereof still defend it from the waves of the sea. The situation of Joppa is pleasant, upon a hill declining towards the sea, and the fields are fertile, but were then untilled.

The Holy Sepulchre June 1596. We entred the Church on Tuesday in the afternoone, and were locked there in all the night following, and almost all the next day, to fulfill our devotions. But I formerly said, that the Italian Friers have chambers of retreat within the Church, in which we did eate and rest at our pleasure. Yet these chambers and the like retreats (wherein the Priests of other Sects with their wives, children and family doe lodge, and eate, and performe the rites of their Religion), have not any one dore into the streete, but all enter the Church, and goe forth by the foresaid onely dore of the Church towards the South, and the key of this dore is kept by the Turkes, who open it at set times, to admit strangers, and once every weeke, to let the Friers returne to their Monasteries, and to receive new Friers into the Church, which are sent from thence, to performe the severall rites of Religion. And this dore hath a grate or little window, at which the inclosed Friers may talke with their friends without, and receive meate sent them from their Monasteries.

Centre of the World June 1596. Now I will onely say, that in the Church they keepe the Chauncell, and therein shew a hole in the pavement compassed with Marble, which they say is the very middle point of the world. Against which opinion I argued with them, and objected, that the earth is round, and that in a Globe the center is in the middest, all centers in the outside being but imaginarie, and to be placed wheresoever the measurer will. Also that in measuring (after their manner) the outside of the earth, Palestina was farre distant from the Equinoctiall line, which divideth the World into equall parts. And if Palestina were just under that line, yet that all the countries having the same Meridian, should be the middest of the World, as well as Palestina. They answered, that David saith in his Psalmes; In the middest of the World I will worke their salvation. To which I replied, that the middest of the World was there taken for the face, and in the sight of the World, so as none should be able to denie it. Whereupon they grew angry, and said, that the Scripture must be beleeved, in spite of all Cosmographers and Philosophers. It had been vaine to dispute further with them, there being not one learned man among these Greekes at Jerusalem.

Franciscan Friars of Jerusalem June 1596. I formerly said that the Franciscan Friars with whom we lodged, were of Europe, whether at three yeeres end they were to be recalled, and some fifty new Friars to be sent hither in their place, which still each third yeere use to be changed. And these Friars are called the Family of Frankes, for the great Turke permits them as French to live there, and forbids the comming of any Spanish or Roman Friars: yet are they for the most part of Sicily, Naples, or Rome; but denying their Countrey, affirme that they are Venetians, and if they were knowne to be subjects to Spaine or Rome, they should incurre great danger. Of them some few are indeed Venetians, and at this time some two were Frenchmen. All these live of the almes of the Merchants in the East of their Religion, who for the most part are Italians, and especially Venetians: yet hath the Monastery also some rents of Lands given to it of old in Sicily and in Spaine; and from thence they bring with them every third yeere at their first arrivall, a present of great value to the Turkish Ottoman.

Tripoli of Syria June 1596. I landed at Tripoli of Syria, (so called for difference from Tripoli in Africke). The Haven is compassed with a wall, and lies upon the west-side of the City, wherein were many little Barkes, and some Shippes of Marsiles in France. The Haven is fortified with seven Towers, whereof the fourth is called the Tower of Love, because it was built by an Italian Merchant, who was found in bed with a Turkish woman, which offence is capitall as well to the Turke as Christian, if he had not thus redeemed his life. Upon the Haven are built many store-houses for Merchants goods, and shops wherein they are set to sayle. The City of Tripoli is some halfe mile distant from the Haven, to which the way is sandy, having many gardens on both sides. (..) The length of the City somewhat passeth the bredth, and lieth from the South to the North, seated upon the side of an hill, so cut by nature as it conveyes a brooke into the streetes. Upon the West side of the City, towards the South corner, is a Castle upon a high hill, which the French men built of old to keepe the Citizens in subjection, and therein the Great Turke to the same end keepes a garrison of Souldiers, under his Agha or Governour of the City. Upon the East side are two bridges over the foresaid brooke, whence many pleasant fountains spring, which running from the South to the North, passe through the streetes of the City, and then water the gardens. Beyond this brooke are fruitfull hils, and beyond the hils Mount Lybanus lies, so high as it hinders all further prospect, which mountaine is very pleasant, abounding with fruitfull trees, and with grapes yeelding a rich wine. Upon the North side without the gates, are many most pleasant gardens, in which they keepe great store of silke-wormes : for the Turks sell their raw silke to the Italians, and buy of them the stuffes woven thereof.

Hama June 1596. We came to the City Aman (which in the Scripture the second of the Kings, the seventeenth Chapter, is called Hamath) being some three dayes journey from Damasco. This Citie is of large circuit, and pleasantly seated upon two Hilles, (for the third Hill of the Castle hath nothing but ruines), having a River running by it, and abounding with Orchards of Palmes and fruitfull trees, and neere the same were sixe Villages in sight. Here we rested part of this day, and the next night, the Master of our Caravan having businesse in the City, neither imported it where we lodged ; for they have no publike Innes, nor beds in any house, nor Cookes, but every man buyes his meate, and can dresse it. But to the end wee might be ready to goe early with the Caravan in the morning, most of us lodged in poore houses of the Suburbs. My selfe and my brother being to sleepe in the yard upon our owne quilts, and the yard declining from the house to the bottome, where our beasts were tied, wee laid our selves downe upon the top of the Hill, but in the morning found our selves tumbled downe between the feet of the Asses and Camels, when I could not remember the English Innes without sighing. This Citie hath great traffique, and aboundeth with necessaries to sustaine life.

Marrah June 1596. About midnight we came to the Citie Marrha, where our Muccaro and divers others payed each of them ten meidines for cafar or tribute, and at the Citie Gate a man was hanged in chaines (also the next day we did see another impalled, that is sitting and rotting upon a stake fastned in the ground, and thrust into his fundament and bowels).

The Traffic of Aleppo June 1596. The Trafficke in Aleppo is exceeding great, so as the goods of all Asia and the Easterne Islands are brought hither, or to Cayro in Egypt. And before the Portugals found the way into East India, these commodities were all brought from these two Cities. And the Venetians and some free Cities of Italy solly enjoyed all this trafficke of old. But after that time, the Portugals trading in East India, served all Europe with these commodities, selling them, yea and many adulterate Druggs, at what price they listed, cutting off most part of this trafficke from the Italians. At last the French King making league with the great Turke, the Merchants of Marsiles were made partners of this trafficke, and in our age the English, under the Raigne of Queene Elizabeth, obtained like priviledge, though great opposition was made against them by the Venetians and French Merchants. And the Turkey company in London was at this time the richest of all other, silently enjoying the safety and profit of this trafficke.

Candia July 1596. Candia, the Metropolitan Citie of the Island, is faire and large, built of stone, with a low roofe, after the manner ol Italy, and the streets thereof are faire and large. It is strongly fortified (as need requires) by the Venetians against the Turkes, and to that purpose hath a strong Castle. From this Citie a large and pleasant Plaine leades to the foresaid cave of Minos.

Santorini December 1596. We sailed close by the Island Zantorini, more then one hundred miles distant from Candia. They report, that this Island, and another of the same name (both of little circuit) were in our age cast up in the middest of the Sea, with an eruption of flames and of Brimstone, and that they are not inhabited, but are commonly called the Devils Islands, because many ships casting anchor there, and fastning their Cables upon land, have had their Cables loosed by spirits in the night, and so suffered shipwrack, or hardly escaped the same.

Chios Upon the three and twentie of December 1596 we passed close by the shoare of the Island Zio, called Chios of old. It is inhabited by Greekes (as the other Islands are), and is famous for the pleasantnesse and fertiltie of the situation and soyle. It yeeldeth great store of Mastick, and the country people keepe flocks of tame Partridges, as of Hens other where. They brag, that Homer lyes buried upon the Mountaine Helias, and this Island hath Saint George for their protecting Saint, and beares his Crosse in their Flags, as England doth. Here we might distinctly see the shoare of Asia.

Troy The foure and twenty of December 1596, (being Christmas even, after the old stile used among the Greekes, and in all Turkey), early in the morning we weighed anchor, and with a faire but gentle wind, sayled close by the shoare where the City of Troy stood of old, seated in a plaine, and upon pleasant hils neere the Sea, and at this day the ruines of Illium the Castle of Priamus are seene upon a hill, and the ruines of the wals in the plaine, yet shew the circuit of the City. The Poets said truly; "Hic seges est ubi Troia fuit," (Corne growes now where Troy once stood). Yet the plowed fields have very many ruines of buildings. On the North side of these Trojan ruines, a necke of Land lies towards the Sea, where they say the Greekes encamped, and left their fatall Trojan Horse. Right over against this Land lies the Island Tenedos, scarce ten miles distant, in the Haven whereof we cast anchor for an hower, under a little Castle.

Galata December 1596. Here lyes the old Citie built by the Genoesi of Italy, called Gallata by the Turks, and Perah by the Greekes. It is now accounted a Suburbe of Constantinople, and is seated upon a most pleasant hill, wherein for the most part live Christians, as well subjects as others, and the Ambassadours of England, France, and Venice, only the Emperours Ambassadour must lye within the Citie, more like a pledge of peace, then a free Ambassadour, and very few Turkes live here mingled with the Christians. The situation of Gallata (as I said) is most pleasant.

Hagia Sophia December 1596 Constantinople. Here is the Church of Saint Sophia, opposite to the Court Gate, of old built by the Christians after the forme of Salomons Temple, and indowed with the annuall rent of three hundred thousand Zechines, now made a Mosche or Mahometan Church. And howsoever the Turks cannot indure that unwashed Christians (so called by them, because they use not Baths so continually as they doe) should enter their Mosches, or passe over their Sepulchers, yet my self entered this Church with the Janizare my guide, trusting to his power to defend me, yet he willed me first to put of my shooes, and according to the Turkes custome to leave them in the porch, where they were safe till we returned. The Church is of a round forme, and built of bricke, and supported with faire pillars, and paved with Marble (over which the Turks layed Mats to kneele, and prostrate themselves more commodiously upon them.) The roofe is beautified with pictures of that rich painting, which the Italians call alla Mosaica, shining like enameled work, which now by antiquity were much decaied, and in some parts defaced. Round about the Church hung many Lampes, which they use to burne in the time of their Lent (called Beyram), and every weeke upon Thursday in the evening, and Friday all day, which they keepe holy after their fashion for their Sabbath day. Round about the upper part of the Church are large and most faire Galleries. And here I did see two Nuts of Marble of huge bignesse and great beauty. Moreover I did see the great Turke when he entered this Church, and howsoever it lie close to the Gate of his Pallace, yet he came riding upon a horse richly trapped, with many troopes of his chiefe horsemen standing in ranke within the Courts of his Pallace, and from the Court Gate to the Church dore, betweene which troopes on both sides, he passed as betweene walles of brasse, with great pompe.

Yedikule December 1596 Constantinople. Here is a Fort that is fortified with seven Towers, called by the Turkes Jadicule, and by Christians the seven Towers, where a garrison of Souldiers is kept, because the Emperors treasure is there laied up, and cheefe Prisoners use to be kept there. The treasure is vulgarly said to bee laied up there, but the great Turke seldome goes thither; and since it is true, that where the treasure is, there is the mind, I thinke it probable (which I have heard of experienced men) that most of the treasure lies in the Seraglio, where the great Turke holds his Court.

Price of European Slaves December 1596. Constantinople. The worthie English Ambassadour, Master Edward Barton commaunded a Janizare to guide mee round about the Citie. (..) An old woman meeting us, and taking me for a Captive to be sold, demaunded my price of the Janizare; who for mirth entertained her offer to buy me and another Gentleman, servant to the Ambassadour, whom hee had sent to beare me company: but because I was very slender and leane after my long sicknes, he could not induce her to give more then one hundred aspers for me, though she offered foure hundred aspers for the other Gentleman in my company, as the Janizare told me in the Italian tongue, when he had intertained this discourse with her to passe away the time in our long walke.

Abydos February 1597. These Castles are now commonly called the Castles of Gallipolis: but of old one was called Sestos, being a Citie in Thrace, in which the most faire Hero was borne and dwelt; and the other was called Abydos, being a Citie of Asia the lesse, in which Leander dwelt, famous for his love to Hero, and these Castles are divided by the Hellespont some two miles broad, at least so narrow, as Leander is said often to have swomme over it to his beloved Hero.

Zante March 1597. Zante hath scarce sixtie miles in circuit, and the Mountaines round about upon the Sea-side, inclose a pleasant and fruitfull Plaine. The Haven is like an halfe Moone increasing, and the chiefe Towne called Zante, lies in a little Plaine upon the innermost part thereof in length. The buildings of the houses are two stories high, with a tyled, but low roofe without any windowes (according to the building of Italy) but are poore and base for the matter, so as the onely beautie of the Towne lies in the Castle built at the East end upon a high Hill, being of a large circuit, and containing many houses and Churches within the walles thereof. In which Castle the Governour (called il Podesta) and the other Venetian inferiour Magistrates dwell, and give Law to the people of that Island.

Turkish pirates of Santa Maura March 1597. The Turkish Pirats of Saint Mauro in Morea, having lately set upon and taken a huge Venetian ship, did lade seventeene of their little barques with the most pretious goods thereof, namely, clothes of Gold, Damasks and Grogerans, to the value of a thousand thousand zechines (as the report went), and setting the ship on fire, tooke away the marriners for slaves. And the very time of my being in this Island (Zante), seven Turkish Gallies lay upon this coast, and robbed all the Venetian ships falling into their hands, so as howsoever they had peace then with the Turkish Ottoman, yet their ships durst not stirre out of this haven.

Corfu April 1597. This Island Corfu inhabited by Greekes is very fertile, yeelding plenty of fruites, corne, wines, and Currands, and this Haven is fortified with two Forts cut out off a Rocke, namely, the old and the new Fort, (which is more then a mile in circuit), both being very strong and held unexpugnable, so as this Island is worthily reputed one of the chiefe Keyes of Christendome.

Travellers covered in this section

• Introductory page
• Gregory Martin's "Roma Sancta", a description of Christian Rome in 1581
• Fynes Moryson's An Itinerary: Containing His Ten Years Travel .. in Italy .. in 1594
• John Evelyn's Diary and Correspondence related to his stay in Rome in 1644
• Francis Mortoft's Journal of his travels in France and Italy in 1659
• John Ray's Observations (..) made in a journey through part of (..) Italy in 1663
• Richard Lassels' The Voyage of Italy, or a Compleat Journey through Italy in ca 1668
• Joseph Addison's Remarks on several parts of Italy, in the years 1701, 1702, 1703
• Jonathan and Jonathan Richardson's Account of Some of the Statues, etc. in Italy - 1722
• Edward Wright's Observations made in France, Italy &c. in the years 1720, 1721 and 1722.
• Excerpts from John Dyer's The Ruins of Rome written in 1740
• Thomas Gray's Letters from France and Italy in 1739-1741
• James Boswell's Letters on the Grand Tour in 1765
• Tobias Smollett's Travels through France and Italy in 1765
• John Moore's View of Society and Manners in Italy (in 1775) - publ. 1781
• John Chetwode Eustace's Classical Tour of Italy (in 1802) - publ. 1813
• Joseph Forsyth's Remarks on Antiquities, Arts, and Letters in Italy in 1802-1803
• John Cam Hobhouse's Dissertations on the Ruins of Rome in 1818
• Henry Matthews' Diary of an Invalid (in 1817-1818)
• Anna Jameson's Diary of an Ennuyée (in 1821-1822) - publ. 1826
• Sir Charles Fergusson's Travel Notes a Journey Through Italy in 1824-1825
• William Hazlitt's Notes of a Journey Through France and Italy in 1824-1825
• Rembrandt Peale's Notes on Italy, written during a tour in the years 1829 and 1830
• Samuel Rogers' Italy - publ. in 1830 with illustrations by J.M. William Turner
• Hans Christian Andersen's The Improvisatore - 1834 (Engl. translation 1845)
• William Gardiner's Sights in Italy in 1846-1847
• George Stillman Hillard's Six Months in Italy in ca 1847-1848

Read What Dante Saw.
Read What Goethe Saw.
Read What Lord Byron Saw.
Read What Charles Dickens Saw.
Read What Henry James Saw.
Read What Mark Twain Saw.
Read What William Dean Howells Saw.
Read Dan Brown's Spaghetti Bolognaise (excerpts from Angels and Demons)