Rome in the Footsteps of an XVIIIth Century Traveller

Richard Lassels (1603?-1688) was made professor of classics in 1629, and was ordained Roman Catholic priest in 1632. He became tutor to several persons of distinction, with whom he made three journeys into Flanders, six into France, five into Italy (between 1637 and the late 1660s), and one tour through Holland and Germany. He is best known for his work "The Voyage of Italy" published in Paris in 1670 and then in London. This work became the most influential English guide book of the period, and the basis for many subsequent guides and travel accounts. It encouraged the nascent phenomenon of the Grand Tour, a term originally coined by Lassels.
Excerpts from The Voyage of Italy, or a Compleat Journey through Italy, making reference to Rome.

• Convento di S. Maria Maddalena
• S. Silvestro in Capite
• Tomb of Maria Raggi
• S. Maria sopra Minerva
• S. Luigi dei Francesi and Palazzo Giustiniani
• S. Giacomo degli Incurabili
• Conservatorio della SS. Croce
• Scuole Pie
• Piazza Navona
• S. Maria della Pace
• Chiesa del Gesù
• S. Giovanni in Laterano
• Pope Joan
• S. Stefano Rotondo
• Villa Mattei
• S. Paolo fuori le Mura
• Catacombs
• Circo di Caracalla/Massenzio
• SS. Nereo e Achilleo
• S. Alessio and S. Sabina
• S. Gregorio Magno
• S. Pudenziana
• S. Maria Maggiore
• San Vitale
• Collegio dei Maroniti
• Collegio dei Neofiti
• Villa Aldobrandini
• S. Maria degli Agonizzanti
• Bocca della Verità
• S. Maria del Sole and S. Maria Egiziaca
• Cloaca Massima
• Tempio della Pace (Basilica di Massenzio)
• Jewish Ghetto
• S. Maria in Trastevere
• S. Cecilia
• S. Grisogono
• Ripa Grande
• Monte Testaccio
• S. Maria dell'Orazione
• Ponte S. Angelo
• Ponte Trionfale
• Passetto
• S. Giacomo a Scossacavalli and Palazzo Campeggi
• S. Maria in Traspontina
• Piazza S. Pietro
• Statue of St. Peter
• Sacrestia di S. Pietro
• Gallery of the Maps
• Ruota degli Esposti
• Palazzo Borghese
• Villa Borghese
• Palazzo della Cancelleria
• S. Girolamo della Carità and S. Tommaso di Canterbury
• S. Eustachio
• S. Pietro in Montorio
• Villa Pamphili

Convento di S. Maria Maddalena The Convent of Penitent Whores (that none may perish in Rome who have a mind to be saved) called Sancta Maria Magdalena in Corso; where many of those poor Magdalens have led such penitential Lives, as the bloody Walls of their Cells, caused by their frequent disciplining, shewed to all Rome in a conflagration of that Monastery that Paulus Quintus himself being informed of it, would needs be carried thither, to see those Bloody Chambers from the Street, and having seen them, wept for Joy.

S. Silvestro in Capite Behind the Church and Convent of the Penitent Whores, stands the Church of San Silvestro in capite, so called from the Picture of our Saviours Head and Face, which our Saviour himself made by miracle, and sent to the King of Edessa. (..) Now this Picture is kept here in this Monastery ; and with great Probability, seeing it was here that divers Greeks Monks, driven our of their Country (..) for their defence of Sacred Images, were entertained by the Pope Paul the first; and its very likely that these good Men brought with them this famous Picture of our Saviour to save it from the fury of the Inconoclasts.

Tomb of Maria Raggi The Tomb of a Lady of the Family of the Raggi is very neat for the new manner of spreading (as I may say, and as you would think) of black Marble upon another colored Marble; and both of them upon a round Pillar.

S. Maria sopra Minerva I went to the Dominicans Convent, called La Minerva , because it's built upon the place where antiently stood the Temple of Minerva. Hence also the Church is called Santa Maria supra Minervam: in this Church I saw many neat Tombs: (..) the Tomb of Cardinal Pimentel, a modern Cardinal.(..) St. Thomas of Aquin's lies buried under a plain stone. Out of humility he would not be buried within the Church, but out of it.

S. Luigi dei Francesi and Palazzo Giustiniani Passing through the Piazza Madama, and before the Pallace of the Grand Duca, I went to St. Lewis his church, belonging to the French Nation. Its an handsome Church and well served with French Priests. There's also an Hospital belonging to that Church and Nation.(..) the Tomb of Cardinal Pimentel, a modern Cardinal.(..) I went to the Pallace of Justiniani, which is hard by. Here I saw so many Statues of the old heathen Gods, and such Rooms full of old Marble Feet of them, that you would almost Swear the Heathen Gods, when they were banished out of the Pantheon, had been committed hither as to a Prison: or that some of the Ancestors of this House had been Shoo-makers to the old Gods, and therefore was obliged to have their Lasts and Measures (maybe you may wish to see a page on Roman Feet and Sandals). For they had Gods of all sizes, seeing (as Varro saith ) they had 30 000 Gods, a world of these Statues are yet seen in the Gallery above, and in every Room in the House, which they clog, rather than adorn.

S. Giacomo degli Incurabili The Church of St. Jacomo degli Incurabili is a neat round Church belonging to the Hospital here, where they that are afflicted with incureable Diseases, are entertain'd and well tended.

Conservatorio della SS. Croce (Rome has) Remedies for ill Married Women, whose unadvised choice (Marriages being often made for Interest) or incompatible humours force to a Corporeal separation, and lest such unfortunate Women should either live incontinently indeed, or give suspition of it, they are provided here with a House where they live retiredly under Lock and Key, till they either reconcile themselves again to their Husbands; or upon just occasions, leave them for ever. Over the door of this house is written "Per le donne mal maritate".

Scuole Pie The Scholae Piae in Rome, a company of good Religious Men, who look like Jesuits only that they go bare foot in Sandals. These good Fathers make a profession to teach poor boys gratis, their first Grammar Rudiments to make them fit to be sent to the Jesuits Schools and having taught them thus in the Schools, they accompany them home in the Streets, lest they should either learn waggery as they go home, or practice it. Nay these humble Men make it their profession not to teach higher Schools, where there might be some profit and honour, at least some satisfaction and pleasure: but they content themselves to go barefoot, and teach only the lower Schools and first Rudiments; by which they neither grow wiser nor richer.

Piazza Navona I stept into Piazza Navona, called so by corruption, from Piazza d'Agona because in this Piazza was anciently a Circus for Sports, and it was called Circus Agonalis. In the midst of it anciently stood a great Egyptian Pillar, with hieroglyphics upon it; and now of late it hath gotten another such Pillar set up here by Pope Innocent the X, with a rare Fountain issuing forth at the Foot of it, and adorned with four great Statues of white Marble, representing the four Parts of the World. In this place also stands the new Church of St. Agnes, built upon the place where she was condemned to the Stews. This Church is built at the Cost of Principe Pamphilio, whose Pallace joins upon it. This Pallace overlooking the Piazza Navona, deserves not only a glance of an Eye, but also an hours Inspection within.

S. Maria della Pace I went to the Church de la Pace, a neat Church, and adorned with excellent Painting and Statues. Here many famous Painters have signaliz'd their Memories, as Peruzzi of Siene, Vasari (..) and Raphael Urbin himself, who painted the Prophets and Sybils in the Chappel of Augustino Chigi: and some think that he made the little Boys that are so well done.

Chiesa del Gesù I came to the Jesuits Church and house called the Casa professa. The Church is neat and capacious, the Chappels well painted, and the ornaments in the Vestry. very rich. (..) In the house of these Fathers I saw the Chamber of S. Ignatius , now turned into a Chappel, and a fair Library.

S. Giovanni in Laterano I came at last to S. John Laterans Church, the Mother Church of all Churches in the World, and the Popes Cathedral. In saying this I have said enough and I say this after the words which are written in the architrave over the Porch of this Church, and after the Bull of Gregory the XI who declared this Church to be the Popes chief seat, and to have the preheminency over the other Churches, Orbis et Urbis; even over S. Peter's Church too by name. (..) I looked also into the fair Hospital which stands hard by the foresaid Church, and so well served and tended, that many persons of quality in their Sickness desire to be transferred hither, that they may be better looked to, than they can be at home.

Pope Joan I think it not amiss to examine a little this Fable of a she Pope, or of a Pope Joanne. I am not affraid at all to call this a fable, both for the unlikliness of it in general; as also for the suspected authority of Its first broachers; the contrarieties in the story and the little credit given unto it by the learnedest adversaries of the Roman Church. (.. after a long dissertation) If I have been a little too long in this digression you will pardon me: We are all debtors to Truth and all Men ought to be glad to see themselves disabused.

S. Stefano Rotondo This Church now belongs to the Seminarists of the German Colledg. Upon the round Walls are painted curiously the Martyrdoms of ancient Martyrs with the divers Instruments of the Heathens, wherewith they tormented the poor Christians.

Villa Mattei Hard by St. Domnica stands the Villa of the Duke Matthei, where I saw the Neat-house full of curious Statues, and crusted on the outside with rare anticaglie. (..) The curious Alley, Waterworks, Grots, Walks, Wetting places, and the intricate Labyrinth, are all very delightsom. (..) Among the rest I took particular notice of the heads of Brutus and Portia, Man and Wife in one Stone.

S. Paolo fuori le mura In all this vast body of the Church there are no Chappels nor any decoration, except at the very end of it, near the great door, where there is an Altar with these words in stone over it, Hic Inventum Est Caput S.Pauli. (..) The most remarkable things which I saw here, were these. 1. The high Altar, with a canopy of stone like a Tabernacle, born up by four porphyry pillars, and adorned with statues. Under the Altar reposeth half of the bodies of S.Peter and S.Paul. (..) 3. The famous Miraculous Crucifix (..) which spoke to S.Bridgit. This Crucifix favours the opinion of those who affirm that there were two nails in our Saviours feet. 4. The neat Chappel and Tabernacle of the B. Sacrament. (..) In the way I took notice of a little Chappel on the Left hand, where St. Peter and St. Paul took leave of one another, before they were led to Martyrdom.

Catacombs The greatest of all these Cemeteria was this of Calixtus. In these Catacombes during the Persecutions raised against the Christians by ten Heathen Emperors, the faithful Believers, together with their Popes and Pastors, used privately to meet to exercise their Religion, and steal their Devotions; that is, to hear Mass in little round Chappels painted over head poorly; Minister the Sacraments; bury the dead Martyrs and Confessors in the Walls of the long Alleys, Preach, hold Conferences; and even celebrate Councils too sometimes. I descended several times into several parts of these Catacombes with a good experienced guide (which you must be sure of) and with wax Lights (Torches being too stifling) and wandered in them up and down with extraordinary Satisfaction of mind. (..) Indeed its incredible how much the presence of these holy Martyrs bodies hath sanctified this place: in so much that no man enters into the catacombes but he comes better out, than he went in. Catholics come out far more willing to dye for that faith, for which so many of their ancestors have dyed before them. The Adversaries of the Roman Church come out more staggered in their faith, and more mild towards the Catholic Religion, to see what piety there is even in the bowels of Rome; Atheists come out with that belief, that surely there is a God, seeing so many thousands of Martyrs have testifyed it with their blood.

Circo di Caracalla/Massenzio This Circus was made by the Emperor Caracalla, and is the most entire of all the Circus that were in Rome. (..) You see how long it was, and the walls yet show you what compass it carryed. (..) In the midst of it stood that Guglia which now stands in the midst of Piazza Navona; I saw it lye here broken in three pieces, and neglected quite till (..) the Romans begin to think that it was some fine thing. (..) At last it light upon a good stone-setter who joyned it so well together, that it now stands streight upon a rare basis and adorns the very heart of Rome: Thanks to that ingenious architect Cavalier Bernini, who set it up there in the anno sancto.

SS. Nereo e Achilleo Entring into the town by S. Sebastian's gate, I went on streight to the Church of S. Nereus and Achilleus of which Church Baronius was Cardinal. The bodies of these Saints are under the High Altar. Cardinal Baronio caused this Church to be painted with the histories of Saints and Martyrs, to excite others to devotion by their examples.

S. Alessio and S. Sabina I went to St. Alexius his Church, where I saw the wooden Stairs, under which this Saint lodged for seventeen years in his own Fathers House (after fifteen years absence) without being known to any Body, till after his death. The body of this Saint lies under the high Altar, together with that of St. Bonifacius the Martyr. (..) Hard by upon the same hill, stands St. Sabina, whither the Pope comes upon Ash-Wednesday in a Solemn Cavalcata, accompanied with the Cardinals.

S. Gregorio Magno They shew us yet the place and the table where this holy Man, in recompence of his charitable hospitallity to the poor, deserved to have an Angel, and the Lord of Angels for his Guests, he treated daily here twelve poor Men in honour of the twelve Apostles. In one of the Chappels, you see a fine Statue of white Marble of S. Gregory in his Pontifical Robes; it was erected to his honour by Cardinal Baronius, who was a devout admirer of him.

S. Pudenziana I went to Santa Pudentianas Church standing in the ancient street called Vicus Patricius. This Church was built upon the place where the house of Pudens, a Senator and Father of St. Pudentianas lived. And here it was that St. Peter at his first coming to Rome lodged, having converted this Pudens and his two Daughters Pudentiana and Praxedes. (..) I saw the dry Well into which St. Pudentiana put many Relicks of Martyrs to conserve them. I looked into it with a lighted Taper let down in a string; and saw many curious relics desked up in the side of the wall. (..) I saw the neat Chappel of the Caetani, with the back of the Altar in white Marble, curiously cut by Olivieri in a basso rilievo, representing the adoration of the Magi.

S. Maria Maggiore I went to St. Mary Majors Church, so called, because it is the greatest of all the Churches of our Lady in Rome.(..) It's built upon the place which was covered miraculously with Snow upon the fifth of August - The History of it is known by the Solemn feast in the Kalender, called Sancta Maria ad Nives, and it is expressed in the old Mosaick Pictures, which are set here in the Wall over the Pillars that bear up the roof. (..) Without the Church stands a Roman Pillar taken out of the Ruins of the Temple of Peace, which is of a prodigious height, with the Statue of our Saviour and our Lady upon it, in brass guilt.

San Vitale Going by a little unfrequented street, running under the foot of Montecavallo, I came to the church of St. Vitalis, which stands joined to the Garden of the Jesuits Novitiat.

Collegio dei Maroniti I stept into the Colledge of the Maronites, in whose Church I heard them singing Mass in their own language, and after their own rites, as the Christians of Mount Libanus have immemorably used to do. Their language is Arabic, and they have always kept themselves free from Heresies; and in Union with the Roman Church, these five Hundred years.

Collegio de' Neofiti The Pope entertains a learned Preacher, to convince the Jews out of their own Scriptures and those that are converted, are provided for in the Hospital of the Catechumens, till they be throughly instructed. I have seen divers of them baptized.

Villa Aldobrandini Going up the hill I came to the Pallace and Garden of Aldobrandini. The house is but little, yet neatly furnished with Statues and Pictures. (..) An old Picture made in the time of the Pagans, representing a Marriage after the old Roman fashion. I take this to be the ancientest Picture in Rome.

S. Maria degli Agonizzanti The Fathers of the Agonizants, whose Vocation is, to be the Seconds of those who fight against death itself that is, whose profession is, to assist those that are in the Agony of Death, and to help them to make then those pious Acts, which Christians should most of all then rouze themselves up to.

Bocca della Verità In the Porch of this Church stands a great round stone, cut into the face of a Man, with a great wide mouth, commonly called, La Bocca della Verità, the mouth of truth; but this not being affirmed by the mouth of truth, I dare not believe it: I rather believe it served in some old building for a Gutter spout: I know truth may speak loud and have a wide Mouth; but he that takes every wide mouth for the mouth of truth is much mistaken.

S. Maria del Sole and S. Maria Egiziaca On the other side of the great Piazza stands the Church of St. Steven. Its rounded with chanelled Pillars. It was antiently the Temple of Juno Matutina, Morning Juno, or Alba Dea, the break of Day Goddess: A Goddess which our Ladies that never rise till noon, would never have been devout to. (..) The next Church I came to was Santa Maria Egyptiaca. It was the Temple of the Sun and Jupiter. This Church is neatly adorned with curious chanelled Pillars. It belongs to the Armenians who have an Hospital also here, belonging to the Catholick Pilgrims of that Country: And the Pope allows them to celebrate Mass here after their own Armenian rite.

Cloaca Massima Close by this Church (which stands by the River side) the great sink of Rome, called Cloaca Maxima, emptied it self into Tyber. And tho this were but a sink , yet it deserves to be mentioned among the rare Magnificencies of ancient Rome. For it was nobly built by Tarquimus Priscus of Free-stone, Arched over head, with a world of Springs running into it: And it was so great, that a Cart might have gone in it. This sink was one of the evident tokens of the greatness and magnificence of Rome anciently.

Tempio della Pace (Basilica di Massenzio) Hard by S. Francesca Romana stands the Temple of Peace, that is, some remnants of that Temple. It was once the most noble of all the Temples (as the pillar before St. Mary Majors great Door, which belonged to this Temple, sheweth) it was 200 Foot large, and 300 long: but now little signs of its Beauty remain: Wars and time defacing the monuments of Peace.

Jewish Ghetto No sooner was I over this Bridge, but I saw on my left hand, the great back door of the Jewry; for here the Jews live altogether in a Corner of the Town, and are locked up every night. I entred into their Synagogues here (which they call their Schools) where they meet upon Saturdays and sing and pray.

S. Maria in Trastevere The guilt Roof, and the two rows of Marble Pillars, do much beautify this Church. Under the high Altar is yet seen the place where Oil issued out, as from a fountain a little before our Saviours Birth, as denouncing his Birth to be at hand, who was to be called Christus , that is anointed. (..) In this Church lie buried Cardinal Hosius, a most learned Trent Father.

S. Cecilia At the end of this Church as you come in, are seen yet the stoves in which St. Cecily was shut up in her own house to be stifled, but that failing she was Beheaded. The stoves are yet entire, and shewing the manner of the antient stoves. (..)In the Church-Porch I found the Tomb of one Adam an English Bishop of London , and Cardinal of this Title: who died in Rome An. 1397. It hath these Verses upon it. "Artibus iste pater famosus in omnibus Adam / Theologus summus Cardinalisque erat / Anglia cui patriam, titulum dedit ista Beatae / Aedes Ceciliae , morsque Suprema Polum." (Adam a famous father in arts all He was a deep divine Cardinal Whom England bred, St Cicilie hath given His title, death at last gave heaven). (..) Under the high Altar of this Church is the Tomb of this primitive Saint, with her Statue in a Couchant Posture, and just as her Body was found in Clement the VIII time, wrapt up in vails stain'd with Blood; and covered with a Robe of Gold. The neat Decoration before the high Altar, with the Silver Lamps burning before the Tomb of this Saint, was the Foundation of Cardinal Sfondrato.

S. Grisogono St. Chrysogonus is a neat Church repair'd some years ago by Cardinal Burghese. The four Pillars of the high Altar look as if they were of Sand and Chrystal petrified together.

Ripa Grande I took the Ripa Grande in my way, and saw there the Boats of Merchandise which come to Rome from Ligorn, Civita Vecchia, Naples, and other places, and disembark their goods here.

Monte Testaccio I made towards St. Pauls Gate and in the way I saw on my right Hand the hill called Mons Testacius, which was made of the broken Pots thrown there in the Romans time by the Potters. Its half a Mile about, and 160 foot high.

S. Maria dell'Orazione Rome hath instituted a pious Confraternity called, La Compagnia dei Morti, whose office is to bury the Dead, and to visit those that are Condemned, and by praying with them, exhorting them, and accompanying them to the Execution, help them to dye Penitently, and bury them being Dead and Pray for their Souls being Buried.

Ponte S. Angelo I will begin at the Bridge called now Ponte Angelo, and from thence take the whole Gyro of the City. (..) Here we saw the stately new decoration of Iron Work with the twelve Marble Statues set upon it by this present Pope Clement the Ninth.

Ponte Trionfale Looking down into the River on the Left-Hand, we saw the ruins of the Triumphal Bridge. This Bridge was called the Triumphal Bridge because over it Triumphs were accustomed to pass anciently to the Capitol. This made it so proud, that it scorn'd that any rustics, or Country-Fellows should pass over it. (..) But pride will have a fall; and the proud Triumphal Bridge hath got such a great one, that there's but just so much of it left, as to shew where it was once.

Passetto From the top of this Castle you see distinctly the long Corridor or Gallery, which runs from the Popes Pallace of the Vatican to this Castle for the Popes use in time of danger. It was made by Pope Alexander the VI. and used by Clement the VII. who by it got safe into the Castle, from the fury of the German Soldiers, who being many of them Lutherans, swore they would eat a piece of the Pope.

S. Giacomo a Scossacavalli and Palazzo Campeggi It stands a little Piazza, with a fine Fountain, and joyning to it a little Church called San Jacomo Scozza Cavalli, in which, under an Altar on the right hand, I saw the Stone upon which Abraham offered to sacrifice his Son Isaac, and under another Altar on the left hand, the Stone upon which our Saviour was placed, when he was presented in the Temple. Both these were brought, or sent to Rome, by Helen Mother of the Emperor Constantine the great. (..) We came to the Pallace of Campeggi , so called, because it belonged to Cardinal Campeggi, the Popes Legat in England, to whom Henry the VIII. gave it. Heretofore it belonged to the English Embassadors, and was one of the best in Rome, both for being near the Popes Pallace, and also for that it was well built by famous Bramante. It belongs now to Cardinal Colonna.

S. Maria in Traspontina Entring into the Borgo, we went towards S. Peters Church, and in the way stept into the Church of the Carmelites, called Santa Maria Transpontina, where in a Chapple are seen two Pillars of Stone enchased in wood, to the which S. Peter and S. Paul were tyed when they were whipped before their death, according to the Romans custom. (..) Here's also a curious Picture of S. Barbara by Cavalier Gioseppe.

Piazza S. Pietro You come to the Piazza of St. Peter, built round about with a noble Portico of Free-stone, born up by four rows of stately round Pillars, under which, not only the Procession upon Corpus Christi day, marched in the shade but also all People may go dry, and out of the Sun in Summer of Winter, unto S. Peter's Church, or the Vatican Pallace. This Portico is built in an oval form, and fetcheth in the great Piazza which is before S. Peter's Church, and therefore can be no less than half a Mile in compass. This noble Structure was begun by Alexander the VII, and half of it finished, and the other half is now almost finished. I never saw any thing more stately than this. The number of the Pillars and of the Statues on the top, I do not justly remember. (..) On each side of this Guglia is to stand fair Fountains, one wherefore is that which is seen there now; which throweth up such a quantity of water, that it maketh a mist always about it, and oftentimes a rainbow when the Sun strikes obliquely upon it.

Statue of St. Peter Near the Confession of S. Peter is an old brazen Statue of S. Peter sitting with his hand up as giving his blessing; and holding his right foot a little out, to be kissed. At first, some wonder to see devout People flocking thither, and kissing the Foot of that Statue, and putting their Heads under that Foot, when they have done; but when they are well informed, that all this is done only to testify, that they submit themselves to the Authority which was given by our Saviour, to S. Peter and his Successors, they rest satisfied.

Sacrestia di S. Pietro Having thus seen the Church, I went to see the Sacristy, where by express leave from the Monsignor, who hath the chief care, as well as the Keys of it, I saw the Holy Relicks, and neat Church-plate belonging to this Church. The Relicks are many, and richly enchased in Gold and Silver. The Church Plate is both plentiful and of great value, as many Chalices of pure Gold set with Jewels, huge Silver Candlesticks, with a Crucifix of the same, as heavy as a Man can lift, with a world of other such like Plate.

Gallery of the Maps The long Gallery of the Maps of Italy painted upon the Walls on both sides, by Paul Brillus, a Flemming and others, and that so distinctly, that you see plainly every State, Province, City, River, Village, Castle, high way of Italy, and where any famous battle was fought, either in the Romans time or since: A Gallery which I wish I had spent as many hours in, as I spend days in going up to Rome.

Ospedale di S. Spirito: Ruota degli Esposti There is also a grate towards the street, where little Infants are put into a square hole of a Turn, and so turned in by Night by their unlawful Mothers, who not daring to own them, would otherwise dare to destroy them. (..) The person that brings the Child in the Night rings a little Bell, whose Rope hangs at the outside of that grate, and an Officer within comes presently and receiveth it; and having first asked whether it be baptiz'd or no, carrieth it presently away, and recommends 'it to a Nurse.

Palazzo Borghese I went to see the Pallace of Burghesi. This is one of the noblest Pallaces in Rome. It gives you a fair Broadside of Windows, three Stories one over another; and its Length is Prodigious. Mounting up to the Chambers I found a fair open Gallery built upon Arches and Pillars round about the Court.

Villa Borghese It is a stately Pallace adorned with so many rare Statues and Picture, that their names make a Book in Octavo. As for the pallace it self, it's compassed on both sides by a fair semicircle of Statues which stand before the two doors. (..) The Wall of the House is overcrusted with a world of Anticallie, or old Marble-peices of Antiquity. (..) I saw the Statue of Aeneas carrying his old Father Anchises upon his Back, out of burning Troy. The young Man is brawny and strong; the old man is made lean and weak; As also the young man shews a great deal of tender affection towards his Father, and the Father as much fear in his looks. (..) I saw the Statue also of David slinging at Goliah. He frowns so terribly as he slings, that you would swear he intends to fright him with his looks, and then kill him with his sling.

Palazzo della Cancelleria This Pallace was built of the Stones of the Coliseo by Cardinal Riario. The chief thing I saw in it was the Gallery of Pictures, of Cardinal (Francesco) Barberini who being Vice-Chancellor, liveth always in this Pallace to exercise his Charge the better.

S. Girolamo della Carità and S. Tommaso di Canterbury I went to St. Girolamo della Charita, a Church and House of good Priests, and most of them Gentlemen, living of their own expences, yet all in Community. S. Philipp Neri instituted them, and lived among them thirty years. (..) Hard by stands the English Colledge, once an Hopital for the English, and built by the English Merchants in Rome, to receive English Pilgrims in; because a poor English Woman had been found worryed by Dogs, in the night, for want of a Lodging. In the Church of this Colledge lies buried, Cardinal Alan, the last English Cardinal of our Nation.

S. Eustachio This Church stands in the place where St. Eustachius with his Wife Theopista, and his Sons Agapitus and Theopistus, were put into a Brazen Bull and martyred by the brazen Heart of Trajan, whom Eustachius had served twice as General of his Armies, and gained him as many Victories.

S. Pietro in Montorio Entring into the Church I was much taken with the Picture, for the high Altar representing our Saviours Transfiguration. It was the last and best piece of Raphael Vrbins making, and then I may say it is the best in the World, I guess it to be the best of Raphael's pieces; because dying he commanded that this Picture of all his Pictures should he set up at his Feet after his Death. (..) Going out of this Church you have a fair sight of Rome under you from this Hill. (..) Convent of Franciscans upon a Hill, called St. Pietro Montorio, where St. Peter was Crucified with his Head downward, in that very place of the Court where there's now a round Chappel.

Villa Pamphili I went to the Villa Pamfilia, new Villa but its seated very high, and from the terress upon the top of the House you have a fine Prospect. There are divers good Pictures and Statues in the house, and fine Water-works, and a Grotta in the Garden.

Travellers covered in this section

• Introductory page
• Gregory Martin's "Roma Sancta", a description of Christian Rome in 1581
• Fynes Moryson's An Itinerary: Containing His Ten Years Travel .. in Italy .. in 1594
• John Evelyn's Diary and Correspondence related to his stay in Rome in 1644
• Francis Mortoft's Journal of his travels in France and Italy in 1659
• John Ray's Observations (..) made in a journey through part of (..) Italy in 1663
• Richard Lassels' The Voyage of Italy, or a Compleat Journey through Italy in ca 1668
• Joseph Addison's Remarks on several parts of Italy, in the years 1701, 1702, 1703
• Jonathan and Jonathan Richardson's Account of Some of the Statues, etc. in Italy - 1722
• Edward Wright's Observations made in France, Italy &c. in the years 1720, 1721 and 1722.
• Excerpts from John Dyer's The Ruins of Rome written in 1740
• Thomas Gray's Letters from France and Italy in 1739-1741
• James Boswell's Letters on the Grand Tour in 1765
• Tobias Smollett's Travels through France and Italy in 1765
• John Moore's View of Society and Manners in Italy (in 1775) - publ. 1781
• John Chetwode Eustace's Classical Tour of Italy (in 1802) - publ. 1813
• Joseph Forsyth's Remarks on Antiquities, Arts, and Letters in Italy in 1802-1803
• John Cam Hobhouse's Dissertations on the Ruins of Rome in 1818
• Henry Matthews' Diary of an Invalid (in 1817-1818)
• Anna Jameson's Diary of an Ennuyée (in 1821-1822) - publ. 1826
• William Hazlitt's Notes of a Journey Through France and Italy in 1824-1825
• Samuel Rogers' Italy - publ. in 1830 with illustrations by J.M. William Turner
• Hans Christian Andersen's The Improvisatore - 1834 (Engl. translation 1845)
• George Stillman Hillard's Six Months in Italy in ca 1847-1848

Read What Dante Saw.
Read What Goethe Saw.
Read What Lord Byron Saw.
Read What Charles Dickens Saw.
Read What Henry James Saw.
Read What Mark Twain Saw.
Read What William Dean Howells Saw.
Read Dan Brown's Spaghetti Bolognaise (excerpts from Angels and Demons)