Rome in the Footsteps of an XVIIIth Century Traveller

John Ray (1627-1705) was one of the most travelled British naturalists of the XVIIth century. His travels covered most of the British Isles and continued through Europe as far south as the islands of Sicily and Malta; he visited Rome in 1663. It is the number of plants, insects and animals that he had personally studied in the field, together with his foundation of field studies and behavioural ecology across the natural world, that makes his work so remarkable. Ray was accompanied on most of his British and Continental tours between 1658 and 1671 by Francis Willughby, who would become his collaborator and patron, and Philip Skippon, the son of Cromwell's Major-General. His academic work contributed to establish the principles of modern science. His account of his journeys in Europe covers topics which were not dealt with by other travellers, who were chiefly interested in antiquities.
In Marca Trevisana, some part of Friuli, and the greatest part of Lombardy, we observed the Corn-fields to be so thick set with rows of trees, that if a man from an hill or high tower would look down upon the Countrey at a distance, he would take it to be a Wood. Against every Tree is planted a Vine, which runs up the tree, and the branches of the neighbour-vines they draw from tree to tree and tie together: So that their Corn-fields are also Woods and Vine-yards, the same land sufficing for all these productions, and not being exhausted with so much spending (as one would be apt to imagine) by reason of the depth and richness of its soil. (..) This part of Italy hath been deservedly celebrated for fertility, and may justly in my opinion be stiled the Garden of Europe.
Excerpts from John Ray's Observations topographical, moral, and physiological: made in a journey through part of the Low-countries, Germany, Italy, and France; published in 1673.

• Pantheon
• Temple of Antoninus
• Temple of Hercules
• S. Costanza
• Temple of Serapis
• Obelisks
• Buried obelisk
• Arco di Portogallo
• Meat
• Poultry
• Fish
• Arts
• Villas
• Game of Morra
• Loreto
• Ravenna
• Verona
• Vienna
• Messina
• Mount Etna
• Syracuse
• Malta

Pantheon This Temple remains still entire, only despoiled of its ancient statues and ornaments. (..) When it was first built it had an ascent of 7 steps which encompassed it round, now you descend 11 steps to go into it: so much is the rubbish and earth grown up above it. Indeed a great part of old Rome lies buried underground in its ruines. (..) This Temple was covered with copper-plates or tiles, taken away by Pope Urban VIII, whence that Pasquinate, Quod non fecere barbari fecere Barberini. He thereupon (as was thought) to silence and appease the clamour of the people, caused thereof to be made the 4 famous wreathed pillars and Canopy of the high Altar in S. Peter's Church. (..) In this Church is the monument of Raphael Urbin, he being so eminent a person and one that carried on painting to its highest perfection.

Temple of Antoninus Templum Antonini et Faustina now S. Lorenzo in Miranda. The portico of this remains still entire with its ancient inscription, and a great part of the walls made of massy square stones. The marble pillars of the porch suffer much by the weather, being of that sort of stone, which hath a grain lying one way, and so riving or cleaving like wood.

Temple of Hercules Templum Herculis Callaici. It stands in the vineyards near S. Bibiana. A very tall building of brick not exactly round but decagonal. The roof of it is a vault or cupola not so great as that of the Rotonda and yet not much less. It had two doors diametrically opposite, and in the other sides were 8 niches for statues.

S. Costanza Templum Bacchi extra portam Piam, one mile without the City walls: now the Church of S. Costanza. This also is a round structure. The walls are of brick and of a great thickness: within it hath a lesser round or concentrical circle of 12 large pillars. There stands an ancient monument of Porphyry of the fashion of a huge chest or trough, having a stone to cover it. This is curiously engraven with several figures of branches of trees, boys treading of grapes, of birds, etc. They call it the monument of Bacchus. In several places of the roof are to be seen very fresh the pictures of bunches of grapes and several things belonging to the vintage. The freshness of the colours and rudeness of the figures makes me doubt whether this was ancient Roman painting or no.

Temple of Serapis Templum Solis. Of this there was lately a piece standing in the Garden of the Columna upon monte cavallo, called Frontispicium Neronis and Torre di Nerone by the vulgar. It is now quite thrown down; only there remain in the Garden vast marble stones, the greater that ever I saw, and some of them curiously carved which came from the top of this building.

Obelisks These obelisks, all that are engraven with hieroglyphics, are of one and the same kind of stone, a marble of a mingled colour red and white, very hard, and which hath not in so many ages suffered the least by the weather. As for the figure of them they are made taper-wise, lessening from the basis to the vertex by little and little, so that indeed they are not much unlike a spit, from whence they took their name. Yet are they not continued till they terminate in a point but when they are become too small to engrave more hieroglyphics upon, the tops are cut into the form of an obtuse pyramid. It is said, and I think truly, that the hieroglyphics engraven upon these obelisks are from the bottom to the top greater and greater by degrees so that the lowermost and the rest all along to the uppermost appear to the spectator of equal bigness.

Buried obelisk We were told of an obelisk lying in the Campus Martius under a row of houses, as big if not bigger then any of those already erected, and supposed to continue entire and unbroken.

Arco di Portogallo As for the Arch called Arco di Portogallo in the Via Flaminia mentioned in Roma antica it is I suppose demolished, for we could find nothing of it.

Meat Their beef is very good, not much inferiour to ours in England. Before they kill their beasts they put them in a great heat and chase, for the same reason I suppose that we hunt Deer and bait Bulls in England, viz. to make the flesh eat more tender and short, which yet spoils the colour of the meat, and in some mens judgment the taste too, disposing it to putrefaction. Their sucking veal, which they call vitella mangana they imagine all Europe cannot parallel for goodness and delicacy. Their kid or Caprette is also accounted very good meat and so is their Swines-flesh. Their Mutton is the least commendable, as being for the most part tough and dry.

Poultry Tame fowl they have as good and savory as in any place, e. g. Hens, Capons, Turkeys, tame Pigeons. Geese are seldom heer to be sold. Plenty also there is of wild foul of the best sorts, and cheap enough, as Partridge of two kinds, the common and red-legg'd Partridge, Wood-cocks, Snipes, Duck and Mallard, Wigeon, Teal, Gray, green and bastard Plover, Curlews, Quails. Of small birds the greatest plenty that I have any where seen, as Thrushes in winter time an incredible number, Black-birds store, Larks infinite. (..) Wild Boar and venison of wild Deer you shall seldom fail of, to be sold in the Poulterers shops.

Fish No want of fish either of fresh or salt water, though it be sold commonly dearer than flesh, as being brought a great way. Scarce any fish to be found any where on the coast of Italy but some time or other it may be met withal heer. Those that are the most frequent in the markets are, of River or Fresh-water fish, Pike, Carp, Tench, Trout, Eel, Barbie, Chevin, Dace. I do not remember that I ever saw a Perch to be sold in Rome. Of Sea-fish, Mullus antiquorum, which they call Triglia, of which they have a Proverb, La Triglia non mangia chi la piglia. He that takes the Triglia eats it not. This fish the French call Rouge from its colour and we in Cornwal (where I have seen of them taken) Surmullet. Spigole, in Latin Lupus marinus, of which kind I have not seen any in England; Orate, Giltheads; Cephali, which we in English call Mullet, the ancients called it Mugil; Sarde, a kind of Sprat; Conger; Lamprey; Sole; Plaise and others of the flat kind; Merluzzos, which we call Hake; sometimes small sturgeons; Dog-fish of several sorts; Tuny and Sword-fish is also to be sold heer.

Arts For pictures of the best masters Rome excells all places, there being more heer than I think in all Italy besides, so that Rome is become the school of Painters, who come from all parts of Europe hither to study and practise. At present Cavalier Bernini is the most noted and indeed only excellent Sculptor, and Pietro de Cortona the most eminent painter.

Villas The ville (as they now call them) of the Princes and prime Nobility of Rome for gardens of flowers, groves and thickets of trees, cut hedges of Cypress, Alaternus, Laurel, Bay, Phillyrea Laurus tinus and other semper-virent plants, close and open walks of great length, orchards of fruit-trees, Labyrinths, fountains and ingenious water-works, Bird-cages, statues and other ornaments, especially their greatness (some being in compass 3 or 4 miles) excel the orchards, gardens and walks of any Prince in Christendom that I have seen.

Game of Morra There is a kind of sport or game much used this day by the Italians, called Gioco di mora, which seems to have been used by the ancients and called micare digitis. It is for the most part between two, who put out just at the same time each of them as many fingers as they please and also name each of them what number he thinks fit, and if either of them happens to be the number of the fingers which both of them together threw out, then he that names that number wins one.

Loreto That the Reader may see what weak proofs and little evidence they have of the miraculous transportation of this house from Judea hither, I shall heer insert the whole Relation of it made by themselves, which is translated into 13 several languages and hung up in tables heer in the Church: and in English runs thus: The miraculous Origin and translation of the Church of our Lady of Loretto. The Church of Loreto was a Chamber of the B. Virgin nigh Jerusalem, in which she was born and bred and saluted by the Angel, and therein conceived and brought up her Son Jesus to the age of 12 years. This chamber after the Ascension of our Saviour was by the Apostles consecrated into a Church in honour of the B. Lady: and S. Luke made a picture to her, likewise extant therein to be seen at this very day. It was frequented with great devotion by the people of the Countrey where it stood whilst they were Catholics. But when leaving the Faith of Christ they followed the Sect of Mahomet, the Angels took it and carried it into Sclavonia and placed it by a town called Flumen, where not being had in due reverence, they again transported it over the Sea to a wood in the territory of Recanati belonging to a Noble woman called Loretta, from whence it took the name of our Lady of Loreto, and thence again they carried it, by reason of the many robberies committed, to a mountain of two brothers in the said territory: and from thence finally, in respect of their disagreement about the gifts and offerings, to the common high-way not far distant, where it now remains without foundations, famous for many signs, graces and miracles; whereat the inhabitants of Recanati, who often came to see it, much wondering, environed it with a strong and and thick wall, yet could no man tell whence it came originally, till in the year 1296. the B.V. appeared in sleep to a holy devout man, to whom she revealed it, and he divulged it to others of Authority in this Province, who determining forthwith to try the truth of the vision, resolved to chuse xvi men of credit, who to that effect should go all together to the City of Nazareth, as they did, carrying with them the measures of this Church, and comparing therewith the foundations remnant, they found them wholly agreeable; and in a wall there by engraven, that it stood there, and had left the place. Which done they presently returning back, published the premises to be true: and from that time forward it hath been certainly known, that this Church was the Chamber of the Virgin Mary: to which Christians began then, and have ever since had great devotion, for that in it daily she hath done and doth many and many miracles. One Frere Paul de Sylva Eremite of great sanctity, who lived in a cotage nigh unto this Church, whither daily he went to Mattins, said that for ten years space on the 8th. of September, two hours before day he saw a light descend from heaven upon it, which he said was the B. V. who there shewed her self on the Feast of her Nativity. In confirmation of all which two virtuous men of the city of Recanati divers times declared unto the Prefect of Terreman and Governour of the forementioned Church as followeth, The one called Paul Renalduci avouched, that his Grandfather saw when the Angels brought it over the Sea, placed it in the forementioned wood, and had often visited it there: the other called Francis Prior in like sort affirmed, that his Grandfathers Grandfather, being 120 years old, had also much frequented it in the same place, and for further proof that it had been there, he reported that his Grandfathers Grandfather had a house nigh unto it, wherein he dwelt and that in his time it was carried by the Angels from thence to the mountain of the two Brothers, where they placed it as abovesaid. By order of the right reverend Monsignor Vincent Cassal of Bolognia Gouvernor of this holy place, under protection of the most reverend Cardinal Moroni. I Robert Corbington Priest of the Society of Jesus in the year 1634. have faithfully translated the premises out of the Latine original hanging in the said Church.

Ravenna To these Monks belongs the Rotonda, a little round Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, about half of a mile without the walls: the entire roof whereof is of one single stone, notwithstanding that the Diameter of the Church is 14. of my ordinary paces, which are near so many yards. In the midst of this stone is a round hole to let in the light. Upon the top of it formerly stood a porphyry monument of Theodoricuss a Gotthick King who is supposed to have built it. The Monastery of the Succolanti is one of the fairest we have seen belonging to that order, and the Church dedicated to S. Apollinaris deserves notice taking, as well for the double row of marble pillars brought from Constantinople by Theodoricus as for the ancient figures of Mosaic work in the walls.

Verona The Amphitheater of Verona, called now the Arena is a very stately and capacious one, and seem'd to me when it was entire not to have been much inferiour either for beauty or greatness to that of Titus at Rome. The outward wall or circle is all gone save a little piece, from whence we may make an estimate of the heighth and beauty of the whole. The remainder setting aside this exteriour circle is kept in good repair by the Veronese. The Arena is compassed about by 42 rows of stone benches one above another, after the manner of stairs, upon which 23000 persons may sit commodiously. As it is imperfect it seemed to us one of the most pleasant and goodly spectacles for a structure of that nature that ever we beheld. (..) Verona is strong by situation, and extraordinarily fortified with walls, bastions, towers, bulwarks, and deep ditches full of water drawn from the River Athesis round about, and strengthened with 3 Castles.

Vienna Vienna the chief city of Austria and at present the imperial seat, is for the bigness of it the most frequent and full of people that we have yet seen beyond the seas. The wall is not above four or five English miles in circuit, but there are large Suburbs at a little distance from the town, those houses that were very near being lately pull'd down to clear the wall and works for fear of a Siege: The Turcs in the time of our being there having taken Neuhausel, and news coming that they were marching with their whole army towards Presburg in Hungary not above 40 English miles distant from Vienna. This City is regularly and strongly fortified with a high and impenetrable wall of earth faced with brick, a broad and deep trench, into which they can (as they told us) when they please draw the water, bastions, half-moons and horn-works, etc. that it is justly reputed one of the strongest holds of Christendom.

Messina It is difficult to enter in at the mouth of the strait by the Faro of Messina, because of the current, which runs heer violently sometimes towards Calabria, sometimes toward Sicily: so that Mariners who have not often sailed this strait are forced to hire a Pilot of Messina to conduct them in, who for the most part when they see any Vessel coming, go out in boats to meet it, and offer their service to guide it into the Harbour, for which they will be well paid. (..) The City makes a goodly show as one comes to it by Sea, the houses all along the shore being built of Free-stone, tall and uniform, and having a fair broad Key before them. (..) This City pretends to be the principal and metropolis of Sicily (Regni caput) and will by no means give place to Palermo. The Vice-roy is obliged to reside 18 months heer, and 18 at Palermo. (..) There is a great emulation and enmity between the Palermitans and Messaneses which involves the whole Island: some Cities taking part with one, and some with the other. The titles the Messaneses give their City in their public instruments and writings are the Noble and Exemplary City of Messina.

Mount Etna (May 1663) At Catania we hired horses and took a Souldier to guide us up Mount Aetna, now called Mon-Ghibello. The top of which at Catania was told us to be 30 miles distant. We ascended for the most part all along from Catania and we found the ground rich, and well cultivated, and the Countrey well inhabited for the slag and cinders cast out of the mountain, being in process of time dissolved by the weather, doth mightily fatten and enrich the soil. We rode up so high till we came to the conservatories of snow and seeing the mountain above us all covered with snow, we did not, nor indeed could we ascend any higher. The trees heerabout had at this time scarce put out their leaves. As we went up we found in one place the ground covered for a quarter of a mile broad, and 4 or 5 miles in length, with cinders, which had been thrown forth by the mountain, and was certainly the relique of a huge stream of melted coals, iron, stones and sulphure poured out in the time of the last eruption, nothing as yet growing among these stones and cinders. This mountain hath in former times thrown forth stones and slag as far as Catania it self, as we could manifestly see, but of all the eruptions that ever were I believe this last which happened (Anno 1669) since our being there was the greatest and most horrid. (..) This mountain is of a very great height, and we were told by credible persons, that one might see it at Sea over the whole Island any way one came thither. We could clearly discern the top of it as far as the Island of Malta, which in a right line must needs be at least 100 miles distant.

Syracuse We saw what is commonly shewn to all Strangers, the Grot at present called orecchio di Dionisio or Dionysius his ear, because it is hewn out of the Rock in fashion of a mans ear. They fancy that Dionysius had a Chamber above this Cave or Grot, wherein he sate and over-heard whatever was spoken or but whispered in the Grot below, where he used to put suspected persons together in prison. The Grot is cut out of the side of a high Cliff or Rock, and is it self very high, and goes a little winding, but is not long.

Malta Malta seems to have been in the most ancient times nothing else but a great Rock, wholly overwhelmed and covered with the Sea especially if we consider the multitude of Sea shells of all sorts, Sharks teeth, vertebres of Thornbacks and other fish bones petrified found all over the Island even in the highest parts of it, and most remote from the shore. (..) Heer is an Alberg for the English Nation, or rather a piece of ground enclosed, with the foundation of an Alberg, the walls being scarcely reared up. This ground we were told some of the Citizens would have bought and built upon, but the Grand Master and Council refused to sell it, not despairing it seems that one day our Nation may be reduced again to the obedience of the Romish Church. (..) The Borgo (as they call it) i. e. Borgo del Castel a mare, built on a little Lingua or neck of land between two creeks of the haven, on the utmost cape where of stands the Castle of St. Angelo divided for greater strength from the Town by a ditch of water cut cross the lingua. For its valour and fidelity in holding out so resolutely against the Ottoman Army besieging it, Anno 1565, it is deservedly honoured with the title of Citta vittoriosa. (..) The Isola (as they commonly call it) or The Town of Senglea, with the Fort of S. Michael, seated in a peninsula made by two creeks running out of the principal haven. For the stout resistance it made to the Turks in 1565 it obtained the name of Citta Invitta. (..) From the old City we rode on to the Great Masters Boschetto where he hath a pretty little Palace in form of a Castle, from the top whereof we had a good prospect of the Island. Heer are a great number of Gardens and Orchards well furnished with all sorts of fruits and flowers, good water-works and a grove of trees; indeed this Palace wants nothing for conveniency or delight. (..) It is now so well fortified and manned that it would prove a very difficult matter for the greatest Prince or Potentate in the world to take it by force having, when it was in far worse condition then now it is, resisted and baffled the Arms of one of the greatest Emperours the Turks ever had.

Travellers covered in this section

• Introductory page
• Gregory Martin's "Roma Sancta", a description of Christian Rome in 1581
• Fynes Moryson's An Itinerary: Containing His Ten Years Travel .. in Italy .. in 1594
• John Evelyn's Diary and Correspondence related to his stay in Rome in 1644
• Francis Mortoft's Journal of his travels in France and Italy in 1659
• John Ray's Observations (..) made in a journey through part of (..) Italy in 1663
• Richard Lassels' The Voyage of Italy, or a Compleat Journey through Italy in ca 1668
• Joseph Addison's Remarks on several parts of Italy, in the years 1701, 1702, 1703
• Jonathan and Jonathan Richardson's Account of Some of the Statues, etc. in Italy - 1722
• Edward Wright's Observations made in France, Italy &c. in the years 1720, 1721 and 1722.
• Excerpts from John Dyer's The Ruins of Rome written in 1740
• Thomas Gray's Letters from France and Italy in 1739-1741
• James Boswell's Letters on the Grand Tour in 1765
• Tobias Smollett's Travels through France and Italy in 1765
• John Moore's View of Society and Manners in Italy (in 1775) - publ. 1781
• John Chetwode Eustace's Classical Tour of Italy (in 1802) - publ. 1813
• Joseph Forsyth's Remarks on Antiquities, Arts, and Letters in Italy in 1802-1803
• John Cam Hobhouse's Dissertations on the Ruins of Rome in 1818
• Henry Matthews' Diary of an Invalid (in 1817-1818)
• Anna Jameson's Diary of an Ennuyée (in 1821-1822) - publ. 1826
• Sir Charles Fergusson's Travel Notes a Journey Through Italy in 1824-1825
• William Hazlitt's Notes of a Journey Through France and Italy in 1824-1825
• Samuel Rogers' Italy - publ. in 1830 with illustrations by J.M. William Turner
• Hans Christian Andersen's The Improvisatore - 1834 (Engl. translation 1845)
• William Gardiner's Sights in Italy in 1846-1847
• George Stillman Hillard's Six Months in Italy in ca 1847-1848

Read What Dante Saw.
Read What Goethe Saw.
Read What Lord Byron Saw.
Read What Charles Dickens Saw.
Read What Henry James Saw.
Read What Mark Twain Saw.
Read What William Dean Howells Saw.
Read Dan Brown's Spaghetti Bolognaise (excerpts from Angels and Demons)