Rome in the Footsteps of an XVIIIth Century Traveller

The 1588 Guide to Rome by Girolamo Francino was mainly aimed at illustrating the churches of the City. This page complements those by Francino in showing the changes which occurred in Rome during the second half of the XVIth century.
Flaminius Vacca (1538-1605), a sculptor and an antiquarian of the time of Pope Sixtus V, has left a diary or register of discoveries of antiquities which took place in his lifetime (Memorie di varie antichità trovate in diversi luoghi della città di Roma - 1594). His family of Spanish descent had a house in Rione Colonna. His memories describe when and where chance diggings unearthed ancient marbles, columns, statues and reliefs. In many instances he indicated where they ended up (churches, new streets, private collections). He is often the only source of information about when and where some statues were found. He himself used an ancient marble from the Roman Forum to sculpture a lion for the Grand Duke of Tuscany.
His writings acquired fame outside Italy thanks to Dom Bernard de Montfaucon, a very erudite Dominican monk who travelled through Italy in 1698-1701 searching for manuscripts, who chose to largely quote Vacca's chronicles in Diarium Italicum, an account (in Latin) of his Italian travels. The book was translated into English in 1712 (The Travels of the Learned Father Montfaucon from Paris thro' Italy): Besides those things which I viewed my self, (..) I have borrowed much from Writers I lighted on, that have not been made publick, the chiefest whereof is Flaminius Vacca, a Roman Carver. In 1594 this man collected many observations of his own and Friends on Roman Monuments found in his time and before it. (..) His Tomb is to be seen in the Church of Santa Maria Rotunda without the Date of the Year, where is the following epitaph. "D. O. M. Flaminio Vacca Sculptori Romano qui in Operibus quae fecit numquam sibi satisfecit." That is, To Flaminius Vacca, a Roman Carver who never pleas'd himself in the works he perform'd.

Illustration from Montfaucon's book depicting a highly hypothetical reconstruction of Domus Aurea

On that side which looks towards the Vale between the Celian and Esquiline Hills, there is a long course of Subterraneous Structures, large Halls and Rooms, which in some Parts are troublesome to go about in. There are many Remains of ancient Pictures to be seen which have a Gust of the Curiosity of that Age. We here give a Specimen of them, as drawn and engrav'd by Peter di Santi Bartolo. Montfaucon

Illustration from Montfaucon's book depicting a reconstruction of a Temple to Venus at "Horti Sallustiani" which was described by Vacca

"Flaminius Vacca. In my Father Gabriel Vacca's Vineyard, near the Gate Salaria, within the Walls is a Vale called, of the Sallustian Gardens. By digging there, my Father lighted on a large Oval Structure, with a Portico about it, adorn'd with Columns of yellow Marble, eighteen Spans high, with Corinthtan Capitals and Bases. There were four Avenues to this Oval Structure, and as many Stair Cases going up to it. The upper Pavement was of Marble of several Colours curiously laid (read more below in this page)." What noble Temple that was above describ'd by Flaminius is made out by the inscription Fulvius* gave us, which was found about this Place, and is as follows, (..) M. Aurelius Pacorus, and M. Cocceius Stratocles, Churchwardens to the Temple of Venus in the Sallustian Gardens dedicated the Marble Pavement and what stands on to the Goddess. (..) We have here given the Draught of the Plan and Prospect of the Temple. Montfaucon
* Andrea Fulvio (in Latin Andreas Fulvius; ca 1470-1527) was an Italian Renaissance humanist, poet and antiquarian active in Rome, who advised Raphael in the reconstructions of ancient Rome as settings for his frescoes. He wrote Antiquitates Urbis in 1527.

Excerpts of Vacca's memories in Montafaucon's book:

• SS. Vito e Modesto
• Porta S. Lorenzo
• Villa Medici
• Trofei di Mario
• Tempio di Minerva Medica
• Domus Aurea
• Spedale di S. Giovanni in Laterano
• Campidoglio
• Monte del Grano
• Ninfeo di Egeria
• Via Marmorata
• S. Maria Liberatrice
• Tempio della Pace (Forma Urbis)
• Orti Sallustiani
• S. Stefano del Cacco
• Piazza Navona

SS. Vito e Modesto Towards the small Monastery of St. Vitus, within my Memory were dug up several Columns, some of them of a Lead Colour Marble, some of such Marble as was us'd for Statues, and under them was a curious Marble Pavement. In the same Place was found a large Vessel seven Spans in length and the same in breadth, with Handles made after a Singular Fashion. In the same Place were carved some Hobgoblins, well drawn, and Images of Philosophers, among which I knew that of Socrates. I think it is now at the House of Cardinal Farnesius.

Porta San Lorenzo As they were digging in the Field next the Gate of St. Laurence without the Walls, I saw several Urns thrown up; some Plain and others of speckled Marble, nor was there much distance between the Places where they have been first laid, and they were certainly Sepulchres. Some few had Inscriptions, were open on the sides, or had the Covers broken which had been knock'd off to look for hidden Treasures so that nothing was left in them.

Villa Medici I remember I have heard, that the Magnificent Metello Vari when he was Overseer of the High Ways brought that ancient Lion which is now in the Garden belonging to the Great Duke on Mount Pincio and is plac'd in the Portico having formerly stood in the Prenestine Way without St. Laurence's Gate, which Lion at first had only half of his Body rising above the Work, but John Sceranus, a Carver of Fiesoli having carv'd solid and entire. (..) I remember that on the Tarpeian Hill, behind the House of the Conservators towards the Tullian Prison, there were manv Pillars of Marble fit to make Statues dug up, with such Massive Capitals, that I carv'd out of one of them, by order of the Great Duke of Tuscany that Lion which is in the Gardens of Medicis at Mount Pincio. (..) Not far from St. John's Gate, without the City, in my memory were found many Marble Statues, which only represented the Fable of Niobe. Ferdinand Great Duke of Tuscany bought them, and they are now in his Garden near the Trinity.

Trofei di Mario In the Street between Marius's Trophies and the Porta Major on the left Hand, in the Vineyard Of the Family of Aspra, was found a Way pav'd with Flint, and close by it many Marble Statues, and Brass Images of Emperors, a great Number of Brass Vessels, with burnt Coins and cas'd with Marble of several Colours. All these Things were dug up at the Time when the Vineyard belong'd to Francis de Aspra, who being Treasurer to Pope Julius III presented him with them; and afterwards the said Pope sent them to several Princes.

Tempio di Minerva Medica The very ancient Temple of Caius and Lucius is now corruptly call'd of Galluzzi; not far from it many Years ago were found nine Statues, bigger than an ordinary Man, and among them was Pomona in black Marble, the Heads and Hands of which Statues had been taken away because they were of Brass.

Domus Aurea I have often seen, when they have been digging at Titus's Baths, where now the Monastery of St. Peter ad Vincula stands, many Marble Figures dug up, and an infinite Number of square Marble Ornaments, to reckon up which would be endless Work. But there is now a Pit made of a vast depth by which it appears, that, a larger Structure was in this Place before the building of Titus's Baths; and now there are most beautiful Capitals set up, adorning the Chappel in the Church of Jesus. I guess that Structure belonged to Nero's Golden House.

Spedale di S. Giovanni in Laterano Under the Hospital of St. John Lateran is still a cross Foundation of great Thickness, made of the Pieces of excellent Marble Statues. I there saw Knees and Elbows carv'd after the Grecian manner and they exactly represented as to the manner of Carving, that Laocoon which is now seen in Belvedere, or in the Palace of the beautiful Prospect. Here Fragments might still be taken Notice of. What becomes of the labours of Statuaries? How miserably do they perish?

Campidoglio The Brasen Horse that is in the Capitol was found in a Vineyard near the Scala Sancta and S. John Lateran and lay neglected on the Ground for many Years, till Sixtus IV. was created Pope, who set it up in the Lateran Street on a handsome Marble Pedestal, with his own Arms and his Name carv'd on it. There it stood till the Days of Pope Paul III who caus'd the Horse to be removed into the Capitol, and a Pedestal for it to be adorned by Michael Angelo's own Hand. (..) I remember, that at the foot of the Tarpeian Hill, towards Marcellus's Theatre, there was found the Columna Miliaria which now stands in the Street of the Capitol; and it had been put into some Building where found. (..) I remember that near the Tiber where now the Synagogue of the Jews stands, in the Days of Pope Pius IV, two Giants were dug up, each of them leading a Horse. They were remov'd to the Capitol and now stand on the top of the Stairs, at the end of the Street. Some said they were two Pompeys; others, because they have Hats or Caps on their Heads, in the shape of half an Egg, thought they were Castor and Pollux; others fancy'd other things.

Monte del Grano I remember that a Mile from St. John Gate, beyond the Aqueducts, in the Place call'd Monte del Grano there was a mighty solid and ancient Heap of unhew'd Stones and Flints, which a Workman manfully undertaking, threw down, and getting in, made Way to the middle Part, till he found a large Marble Urn, on which was a Bass Relieve reprelenting the History of the Ravishing of the Sabine Women, and on the Cover were two Humane Figures lying along, one of which represents Alexander Severus, the other his Mother Julia Mammea. There were Ashes preserv'd in the Urn, which is now in the Palace of the Capitol where the Conservators sit.

Ninfeo di Egeria Not far from this Place is the Ascent to the little House call'd la Cafarella because it belongs to the Cafarelli. There under a great ancient Arch is a Fountain still in use. Hither many of the Romans repair in the Summer Months to divert themselves and spend the Day. I have been often at the Place, and seen an ancient Epitaph, which had been laid there in the latter Ages for a Pavement by the aforesaid Fountain; the inscription imported that the Fountain was dedicated to Egeria and the Nymphs.

Via Marmorata In 1593 in the Place called la Casarina near the Hill Testaceus were found certain yellow Columns which being brought up the Tiber had been landed there. There are also Marble Stones of several colours, just begun to Be hew'd which have been long since dug up here, but being full of Stains that defec'd the Superficies, and an extraordinary hard Crust over them, they have been left there. On the Bank of the Tiber there were Walls which look'd as if they had been of Store-houses and Magazines, and there is a sort of Inlet or Bay, making a Harbour on the Tiber.

S. Maria Liberatrice I remember the Statue of Marforius was by Septimius Arch, lying along on the Ground. (..) Before Marforius when they were moving him, they found that great Bason or Trough of speckled Marble, which now serves to water Cattel at the Fountain in the midst of the Roman Forum. Here Sheep and Oxen are sold. (..) Where now stands the Church of Mary libera nos a poenis inferni in my Time was found a Bass Relieve of Curtius, the Roman Knight, casting himself into the gaping Earth, which is now affixed to the Wall of the Capitol at the entrance into the Palace of the Conservators.

Tempio della Pace (Forma Urbis) I remember I saw Workmen digging behind the Church of Sts Cosmas and Damianus and that they took up a Marble Table Stone; which stuck to the Wall in the nature of casing, and on it was carv'd both the Plan and the Prospect of the City of Rome.

Orti Sallustiani At each Door we observ'd two Columns of Eastern Alabaster, so transparent, that the Sun Beams shin'd through it. Under this Oval Structure we found some passages, so lofty, that a Man might go upright under Ground, and those subterraneous Ways were all lin'd with Grecian Marble. We also found two Leaden Pipes, the empty Diameter. whereof was at leaft a Span, with this Inscription on them, NERONIS CLAUDIUS. In the same Place were also dug up many Medals of the Emperor Gordian scatter'd up and down, and some Silver ones, but no bigger than a Brass Farthing, and with them many Pieces of Mosaick Work. At that Time the Cardinal de Montepolitiano bought Part of the yellow Marble Columns, wherewith the Rails of his Chappel in the Church of St. Peter in Montorio were adorn'd. He also purchas'd the Alabaster Columns one of which being whole, after wiping off the Dirt, he caused to be pollished with the others, which were broken to Pieces he adorned the Seats. All which Ware, by him highly valu'd, with other Monuments of Antiquity and of Curiosity, he design'd as a Present to the King of Portugal but when the Ship Was out at Sea, unsteady Fortune, in whose Power that Treasure was, deliver'd it upto the Waves.

S. Stefano del Cacco The Church of St. Stephen of de Cacco. The Name deriv'd from, two Lion's of the black Marble called Basaltes brought from Numidia which in my Memory stood before the said Church but in the Days of Pope Pius IV' they were carry'd to the Capitol and plac'd as an Ornament at the Foot of the winding Stairs that lead to the Street of the Capitol. A few Years since, as they were digging under the Church, they came upon a Part of the ancient Temple, whose Columns of yellow Marble were still standing but as they were moving them they fell in Pieces, having been long before impair'd by Fire. Here were also found certain Pedestals or Altars formerly us'd by the Gentils, and on them were carv'd Rams, with certain Ornaments about their Necks, as was the Custom of the Heathens. (..) Nor is it to be question'd but that there are many Monuments of Antiquity bury'd under this Church, which are lost for fear of pulling it down.

Piazza Navona Not far from a House in the Street call'd Madama were found large Pilasters of Tivoli Stone, on one of which were the Remains of Steps, formerly us'd for Spectators to sit on, and thence they could see into the middle of the Amphitheatre. Such Steps as those were found in the present Brasier's Shops, which are at the end of the Navona Street. The like have also been seen in the Church of St. Agnes. (..) It is reported that Pasquin was found there, who I believe was at the upper end of the Amphitheatre, where the Festival was kept, and the Street still retains the Name of Agon.

Move to the other pages of this section dealing with Francino's 1588 Guide to Rome:
Introduction - The Seven Churches.
The Churches of Trastevere and Borgo.
The Churches near Via del Corso.
The Churches in the Bend of the Tiber.
The Churches of Ripa and Campitelli.
The Churches of Monti.