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Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.

To the Italian visitors of my web site

ROME
in the footsteps of an XVIIIth century traveller

Leisure


The etchings included in Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna were clearly aimed at showing the monuments of Rome. Vasi, who regarded himself primarily as an architect, was attracted by the churches and the palaces of the Eternal City. His customers however and in particular his foreign customers were also fascinated by scenes of Roman life. In the early XVIIth century a certain number of Flemish and Dutch painters settled in Rome and they specialized in small canvasses portraying scenes set in taverns. The paintings were shipped home and had a large market there. The Italian painters used to call their foreign colleagues Bamboccianti (makers of rag-dolls) after the small and sketchy figures of their paintings. But in the second half of the XVIIIth century there was a significant decline in commissions from the Church and gradually the Italian artists paid more attention to a market demand they had insofar disdained.
This page shows details of etchings in which Vasi portrays scenes of how the Romans spent their free time.

Plate 20
Dancing at Porta Castello

In the XVIIIth century the Roman upper classes followed the French fashion and danced delicate minuets, while the lower classes remained faithful to the local saltarello (=little jump) a more lively dance marked by a tambourine. A famous example of saltarello can be found in Mendelssohn's Italian Symphony.

Plate 82
A picnic at Ponte Nomentano

Vasi shows a picnic at its last stages: the participants seem in the process of singing a hymn to wine, a reminder of the celebrations which the ancient Romans held in honour of Bacchus. The Dutch artists in Rome were known for their drinking habits. They formed a brotherhood called Bentvueghels (band birds) with an elaborate rite of admission based on a long series of toasts. As the rite was celebrated by a Veldpaap, who mocked the pope, they preferred to meet at inns outside Rome to avoid being arrested by the papal police for improper behaviour. The inn at Ponte Nomentano was a very frequent venue for their meetings.

Plate 129
Playing bowls near Santa Sabina

Santa Sabina on the Aventine hill was a very secluded spot and bowls players were not disturbed by carriages and riders. Vasi shows the player in the act of throwing the bowl with force to hit and send away the opponent's bowl. The game is still popular in Italy, chiefly in small towns.

Plate 25-ii
Quacks and charlatans near Piazza della Rotonda

The peasants who came to Rome to sell their goods or to buy something at one of its markets were the target of quacks and charlatans who sold them elixirs to prolong life or to induce girls to fall in love. The peasants were entertained by actors impersonating the stock characters of the Italian commedia dell'arte, an improvised popular comedy. Famous Italian operas are based on these aspects of life (L'elisir d'amore by Donizetti and Pagliacci by Leoncavallo among others).

Plate 133
Watching the people strolling up and down Via del Corso

Via del Corso was the setting for the Roman Carnival and windows and balconies were rented out at a very high price, especially to watch the horse races. But also during the rest of the year the ladies spent some time watching the people in the street. In some cases to allow the viewers to see without being seen, the balconies were closed by shutters with louvers.

Plate 34
A procession near S. Giovanni in Laterano

The religious rites were always very spectacular: the processions of the Holy Week attracted large crowds and occasionally the people attending them became so excited that they ended by attacking the Jews in the Ghetto. Vasi shows a brotherhood procession going towards the rear entrance of S. Giovanni in Laterano.

Plate 192
The Pope walking in the Quirinale Gardens

During the Renaissance the popes were the promoters of entertainments and feasts, but in the XVIIIth century a greater consciousness of the religious role of the pope led to a more severe lifestyle.

See also Trade in XVIIIth century Rome and Traffic in XVIIIth century Rome.