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Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.

To the Italian visitors of my web site

From Bracciano to Viterbo Barbarano, Blera and Vetralla
(inscription on the fortress of Vejano celebrating its reconstruction by the Santacroce)

Barbarano

Fortifications and main gate
Fortifications and main gate

The soft volcanic soil of northern Latium is cut by deep ravines caused by small rivers; the first inhabitants of the region often chose to settle at the junction of two ravines so that the access to their villages could be easily protected from hostile attacks. The origin of Barbarano goes back to those old times: its imposing walls are short - just some 200 yards in length - because the rest of the town is protected by two precipitous ravines.

Coat of arms of Barbarano, coat of arms of Martinus V Colonna and a Renaissance building in the main street
Coat of arms of Barbarano, coat of arms of Pope Martinus V Colonna and a small palace in the main street

The official name of the town is Barbarano Romano and the association with Rome is strengthened by the town coat of arms, whose motto S(enatus). P(opulus).Q(ue).B(arbaranorum). is clearly derived from the coat of arms of Rome. It is not the only coat of arms one can find in Barbarano: the town was a direct possession of the pope, although it was assigned to local lords. There is a coat of arms of Pope Martinus V, Colonna (1417-31) on the façade of a church near the main gate of Barbarano. Other coats of arms of local families can be seen in the well preserved historical centre of Barbarano.

The ravine of River Biedano seen from Barbarano
The ravine of River Biedano seen from Barbarano and a detail showing some of the many caves existing in the area

The main street of Barbarano ends with a terrace which offers a fine view over the gorge of the River Biedano. Its walls show many caves, which in most cases were at least partially made by the Etruscans, who used them as tombs.

Blera

Old medieval bridge on the River Biedano; en route to Blera
Old medieval bridge on the River Biedano; en route to Blera

The very ancient town of Blera was built on a ridge completely isolated by the gorge of River Biedano and by a parallel ravine. The town could only be accessed by crossing a bridge and then going along a steep street, where the Etruscans cut into the tufa rock at some locations. A medieval bridge replaced the old Roman bridge, the ruins of which can still be seen a mile upstream. Today a modern bridge has put an end to the isolation of Blera, but it is worthwhile approaching the town from the old route to see the caves where the poor lived and which are used now for storage.

S. Maria Assunta; a detail of a Renaissance well with the Orsini coat of arms; Roman sarcophagus now used as an altar
S. Maria Assunta; a detail of a Renaissance well with the Orsini coat of arms; Roman sarcophagus now used as an altar

The main square and the streets of Blera are a sort of open air museum, with exhibits from all periods of its long history. Its main church was built on a Roman temple and the altar of the church is a Roman sarcophagus portraying Meleager hunting the Calydonian boar, a most appropriate subject because Blera is very near Maremma, the marshy plain where the boar was actually hunted until very recently. The façade was modified in the XVIIIth century but it retains a Renaissance portal (shown in the image used as a background for this page).
The well goes back to the Renaissance too: it must have been very deep to intercept the water-bearing stratum: it is decorated with a coat of arms, the right side of which is still readable and tells us that Blera belonged to the Orsini.

Details of Roman, Renaissance and Baroque art in the streets of Blera
Details of Roman, Renaissance and Baroque art in the streets of Blera


Vetralla

Surviving tower of the old fortress; access to Vetralla; Palazzo Franciosoni
Surviving tower of the old fortress; access to Vetralla; Palazzo Franciosoni

Vetralla, although being built on a low ridge, did not have natural defences: so it was protected by a complete set of walls and by a small fortress located on its highest point: the walls in some areas were pulled down to allow easier access to the old town where some Renaissance palaces show that Vetralla had some importance (in 1783 Pope Pius VI gave it the title of City).

Cathedral; fountain before SS. Filippo e Giacomo
Cathedral; fountain before SS. Filippo e Giacomo

The Cathedral is a very large building designed by Giovanni Battista Contini in 1711, but completed after his death. The shape of a medieval fountain before the old church of SS. Filippo e Giacomo is a sign that Vetralla is close to Viterbo, where this kind of fountains is very common.

S. Francesco; detail of the portal
S. Francesco; detail of the portal

A very old church near the northern end of Vetralla was enlarged in the XIth century and later on acquired by the Franciscans. Its portal is decorated with unusual reliefs.
From Vetralla you can easily reach Viterbo.

Move back to Manziana, Canale Monterano and Veiano.


Pages on towns of Latium other than Rome In the Duchy of Castro: Farnese, Ischia di Castro, Valentano, Gradoli, Capodimonte, Marta In Maremma: Corneto (Tarquinia), Montalto, Canino A Pilgrim's Way: Via Francigena: Acquapendente, Bolsena, Montefiascone In and about Viterbo: Viterbo, Bagnoregio, S. Martino al Cimino, Tuscania, Bomarzo, S. Maria della Querce, Bagnaia, Orte, Vasanello, Vitorchiano From Civitavecchia to Civita Castellana: Civitavecchia, Tolfa, Allumiere, Oriolo Romano, Capranica, Sutri, Bassano, Monterosi, Nepi, Castel d'Elia, Civita Castellana From Bracciano to Viterbo: Manziana, Canale Monterano, Vejano, Barbarano, Blera, Vetralla Around Monte Cimino: Ronciglione, Caprarola, Carbognano, Fabrica, Corchiano, Vignanello, Vallerano, Soriano The Bracciano Lake: Bracciano, Trevignano, Anguillara At the foot of Monte Soratte: S. Oreste, Rignano, Faleria Land of the Romans' wives: Montopoli, Poggio Mirteto, Casperia, Cantalupo, Roccantica Sentinels on the Highway: Fiano Romano, Civitella S. Paolo, Nazzano, Torrita Tiberina, Filacciano, Ponzano Along Via Aurelia: Palidoro, Palo, S. Severa and S. Marinella A Walk to Malborghetto: Prima Porta, Malborghetto Branching off Via Cassia: S. Maria di Galeria, Formello, Isola Farnese To Nomentum and beyond: Mentana, Monterotondo, Palombara A Walk to Ponte di Nona: ancient monuments along Via Prenestina Via Appia Antica A short and delicious digression: Tivoli, Montecompatri, Monte Porzio Catone, Frascati, Grottaferrata, Marino, Castelgandolfo, Albano, Ariccia, Genzano, Velletri, Nemi, Rocca di Papa, Rocca Priora, Civita Lavinia (Lanuvio), 
Porto, Ostia Where the painters found their models: Anticoli Corrado, Castelmadama, Vicovaro, Arsoli Subiaco The Roman Campagna: Palestrina, Genazzano, Paliano, Anagni The Ernici Mountains: Ferentino, Alatri The Volsci Mountains: Valmontone, Colonna, Segni, Norma, Cori On the Latin Shores: Anzio, Nettuno, Torre Astura On the edge of the marsh: Sermoneta, Sezze, Priverno Circe's Cape: S. Felice, Terracina Veroli Branching off Via Flaminia: Riano, Castelnuovo di Porto, Morlupo, Leprignano (Capena)

Latium was enlarged in the 1920s with territories from the neighbouring regions: the map on the left shows the current borders of Latium; the map on the right has links to pages covering towns of historical Latium: in order to see them you must hover and click on the dots.