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Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.
Page revised in July 2010.

To the Italian visitors of my web site

Chiesa di S. Maria Maddalena (Book 7) (Map C2) (Day 4) (View C6) (Rione Colonna) and (Rione Sant'Eustachio)

In this page:
 The plate by Giuseppe Vasi
 Today's view
 Convento dei Ministri degli Infermi
 S. Maria Maddalena
 Palazzo e Collegio Capranica
 S. Maria in Aquiro
 Tempio di Matidia (Via della Spada d'Orlando)
 S. Salvatore alle Coppelle

The Plate (No. 138)

Chiesa di S. Maria Maddalena

This 1756 etching by Giuseppe Vasi is meant to show the convent of Ministri degli Infermi (Servants of the Sick aka Camillians), an order founded in 1582 by St. Camillus de Lellis to provide spiritual comfort to the very sick; however the focus of the view is on the richly decorated façade of the church attached to the convent; at the time of the etching the façade was a very recent addition to the monuments of modern Rome as it had been completed in 1735.
The view is taken from the green dot in the 1748 small map below. In the description below the plate Vasi made reference to: 1) S. Maria Maddalena and attached convent; 2) Street leading to S. Maria in Campo Marzio (Via della Maddalena); 3) Street leading to Collegio Capranica. The map shows also 4) Collegio Capranica; 5) S. Maria in Aquiro; 6) Via della Spada d'Orlando; 7) S. Salvatore alle Coppelle. The dotted line in the small map delineates the border between Rione Sant'Eustachio (left) and Rione Colonna (right).

Small ViewSmall Map

Today

The view today
The view in June 2010

An inscription above the entrance to the convent says that the Camillians were authorized by Pope Urban VIII to pull down some houses to obtain a small square in front of the church they wanted to build; thanks to that decision it is today possible to take a photo which is almost identical to Vasi's view.
While the buildings are the same the character of the neighbourhood has changed in very recent years: Via della Maddalena can compete with Trastevere for the number of tourist restaurants it houses; in 2009 Michelle Obama, the American First Lady, chose a restaurant in a nearby street (opposite S. Salvatore alle Coppelle) for tasting an "Italian trittico", three different kinds of pasta, with her daughters.

Convento dei Ministri degli Infermi

Convento dei Ministri degli Infermi
(left) Side entrance to the convent; (right) decoration of a building opposite the convent


The construction of the convent was a very troubled affair which lasted almost as long as the process of canonization of the founder of the order who was recognized as a saint only in 1746; in 1586 St. Camillus de Lellis was assigned a small hospital which included a church dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene; the complex belonged to Arciconfraternita del Gonfalone. The construction of a new convent started in 1628, but financial difficulties delayed its completion; the side adjoining the church was designed by Carlo Bizzaccheri; the complex included shops and flats which were rented to provide a stable income to the order.

S. Maria Maddalena

S. Maria Maddalena
(left) Façade; (right) detail of the portal

The Camillians entirely rebuilt the church by relocating its location at the southern end of the complex; they maintained however its dedication to St. Mary Magdalene, although in Rome the saint was associated with nunneries and institutions aimed at the redemption of prostitutes; however they chose not to draw much attention to her statue by placing it in the upper section of the façade (in the image used as background for this page you can see the statue by Joseph Canard showing a very nice naked leg).

S. Maria Maddalena
Upper section of the façade

The design of the façade is traditionally regarded as being a work by Giuseppe Sardi, but some art historians attribute it to Emanuel Rodriguez Dos Santos, a Portuguese architect who designed SS. Trinità degli Spagnoli. Its rich decoration was highly criticized during the XIXth century; in 1844 Rev. Jeremiah Donovan wrote in his very detailed guide to Rome: The front is disfigured by broken lines, tasteless and superfluous ornaments and capricious pediments.
You may wish to see the elaborate organ inside the church.

Palazzo e Collegio Capranica

Collegio Capranica
View of Collegio (left) and Palazzo (right) Capranica

The Capranica were a family from Capranica Prenestina, a small town near Palestrina, which at the time belonged to the Colonna; Pope Martin V Colonna appointed Domenico Capranica cardinal in 1423; after Domenico's death in 1458 Pope Pius II appointed his brother Angelo cardinal. Domenico started the construction of the family palace which he bequeathed to his brother under the condition that it should also house a college for the education of the young who chose an ecclesiastical career. Angelo preferred to enlarge the building in order to provide his residence and the college with separate entrances and facilities.

Collegio Capranica
(left) Portal and window of Palazzo Capranica; (right-above) portal of Collegio Capranica with a series of erased coats of arms (the central one belonged to Pope Nicholas V); (right-below) coat of arms of Cardinal Capranica on a side entrance to Collegio Capranica

Palazzo Capranica has three Gothic windows which are rather unusual to see in Rome; the addition which included the college was similar to Palazzo Venezia in the design of the windows and in having a lateral tower; the overall proportions of the two buildings were modified by the addition of a storey without windows in the XVIIIth century. In 1527 the students of the college died fighting at Porta S. Spirito during the Sack of Rome.

S. Maria in Aquiro

S. Maria in Aquiro
(left) Façade; (right) details of the decoration; the clothes hanging from the flaming vase are swaddling clothes, a reference to the orphans who were brought up in the adjoining building

A church was built on this site in the Vth century at the expense of a Cyrus, after whom the church was called "a Cyro" (built by Cyrus), thus leading to its current name, Aquiro. For a certain period however it was known as Chiesa degli Orfanelli because from 1540 the building to the right of the church housed Collegio Salviati, an institution for the care and education of orphans. The medieval church was rebuilt between 1590 and 1774 when the façade was completed by Pietro Camporese. The interior of the church was entirely redesigned in 1866, but it retains some baroque tombs such as the fine Monument to Archbishop Carlo di Montecatini by Domenico Guidi.

Tempio di Matidia

Via della Spada d'Orlando
(left) Via della Spada d'Orlando (Street of Roland's Sword); (right) cut cipollino column standing at the location of the event after which the street is named

In a narrow street near S. Maria in Aquiro a broken cipollino column projects from Collegio Salviati; according to tradition it was cut by Roland, the chief paladin of Emperor Charlemagne, in the vain attempt to destroy Durendal (the name of his sword). The event is remembered in the name of the street. The broken column and the piece of wall unearthed in the opposite building belonged to a temple dedicated by Emperor Hadrian to Matidia, his mother-in-law, and niece of Emperor Trajan. Hadrian most likely decided to erect a temple to his mother-in-law to stress his links with Trajan, as there were doubts about him having actually being adopted as successor by Trajan. In the same neighbourhood Hadrian built a temple to himself and rebuilt the Pantheon.

S. Salvatore alle Coppelle

S. Salvatore alle Coppelle
(left) Façade; (centre) bell tower; (right) box for signalling sick travellers

The church is named after the Cupellari, manufacturers of small barrels used for storing water, who had their shops in the area. With the new aqueducts built by Pope Sixtus V and Pope Paul V this trade was abandoned, but the name is still associated with a church, a street and a square. The church was almost entirely rebuilt in the XVIIIth century with the design of Carlo De Dominicis and it was entrusted with a confraternity in charge of assisting sick travellers. A sort of mail box on the side wall of the church retains the 1750 inscription inviting (or rather requiring) the innkeepers to provide the names of their guests needing assistance. Inside you can see the fine Monument to Cardinal Giorgio Spinola by Bernardino Ludovisi. Since 1913 S. Salvatore alle Coppelle is the church of the Romanian community in Rome.

Piazza delle Coppelle
In the proximity of S. Salvatore alle Coppelle: (left) detail of an XVIIIth century building; (right) madonnella showing a copy of a painting by Pierre Mignard (1612-95) who spent more than 20 years in Rome before returning to Paris and becoming a famous portraitist at King Louis XIV's court


Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:


Chiesa di s. Salvatore delle Cupelle
Dell'antichità di questa chiesa solamente si conserva il piccolo campanile alla gotica, e della moderna magnificenza non vi e altro, che un deposito ornato di marmi, sculture, e metalli dorati lavorato da Bernardino Ludovisi. Indi ritornando nella strada a sinistra, si vede la nuova
Chiesa di s. Maria Maddalena e Convento de' Ministri degl'Infermi
Quanto ricca è questa chiesa di pitture, marmi, e stucchi dorati, altrettanto giocoso è il suo disegno, ancora del prospetto. Ed è ornata di bellissimi altari, di statue, bassirilievi, e pitture di buona mano: il s. Lorenzo Giustiniani è di Luca Giordani, il s. Cammillo de Lellis di Placido Costnzi, le pitture a fresco del Cav. Conca, e li due laterali di suoi allievi. La s. Penitente sull'altare maggiore è di Alessandro Costanzi, ed il s. Niccolò di Bari è del Baciccio: è poi riguardevole l'organo collocato sopra la porta, per li molti registri, che vi si suonano; non già le pitture nella tribuna e volta.
Chiesa di s. Maria in Aquiro, e collegio Capranica
Dopo il vicolo a sinistra della divisata chiesa, siegue il collegio Capranica eretto l'an. 1400. da un Cardinale di tale antichissima famiglia in una parte del proprio palazzo, e però vanta il primato tra tutti i collegi di Roma.
A fianco evvi la chiesa di s. Maria in Aquiro, eretta da Anastasio I. circa l'anno 400. sopra le rovine di un tempio antico creduto di Giugurta, e fu riedificata dal Card. Ant. Maria Salviati, il quale nel 1591. vi aggiunse la casa per li fanciulli orfani raccolti da s. Ignazio di Lojola, ed insieme il collegio per quelli, che volessero studiare le lettere. Il s Carlo, che sta nella primi cappella della chiesa, è di un Lombardo; il quadro nella seconda è di Francesco Pavone, le pitture a fresco nella terza sono di Carlo Veneziano, il quadro sull'altare però è creduto del Nappi. L'architettura dell'altare maggiore è di Mattia de Rossi, ed il quadro, di Carlo Maratta. Le pitture della passione nella penultima cappella sono di Gio: Batista Speranza, ed il quadro con i laterali sono di Gherardo Fiammingo.
Si disse questa chiesa in Equiro, o Aquiro forse dagli archi del acqua vergine, che quivi passando andavano, a finire, come dicemmo; presso la chiesa di s. Ignazio; perciò si crede dal Nardini, che qui giungesse almeno uno de' portici de' Septi, che poi vi furono fatti da Lepido, e da Agrippa, in cui facevasi una continua fiera, e mercato di preziose merci.

Next plate in Book 7: Chiesa dei SS. Vincenzo e Anastasio
Next step in Day 4 itinerary: Seminario Romano
Next step in your tour of Rione Sant'Eustachio: Palazzo Nari
Next step in your tour of Rione Colonna: Seminario Romano