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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.
Page revised in March 2010.

To the Italian visitors of my web site

S. Bartolomeo all'Isola (Book 5) (Map C3) (Day 5) (View C9) (Rione Ripa)

In this page:
The plate by Giuseppe Vasi
Today's view
S. Bartolomeo all'Isola
Monastero Francescano
Torre Caetani
S. Gregorio a Ponte Quattro Capi

The Plate (No. 92)

S. Bartolomeo all'Isola

In the foreground of this etching Giuseppe Vasi shows a gentleman in the act of copying an ancient inscription; in the description Vasi explains that the stone was inside the Franciscan monastery: by using a magnifying glass it is possible to read the first words: Semoni Sanco Deo Fidius. The reason for Vasi's interest in this inscription lies in the belief that an erroneous interpretation of its content led St. Justin Martyr to affirm that a temple was dedicated to Simon Magus on Isola Tiberina.
Semo Sancus was instead a deity of the Sabines, which the Romans included in their pantheon; in particular Semo Sancus was the god of oaths and it is thought that words like saint and sanction derive from Sancus.
The view is taken from the green dot in the small 1748 map here below. In the description below the plate Vasi made reference to: 1) Convento dei Padri Osservanti; 2) Parte del Ponte Cestio; 3) Parte del Ponte Fabrizio o Quattro Capi; 4) S. Gregorio a Ponte Quattro capi; 5) Part of Rome. 2) and 3) are shown in detail in other pages.

Small ViewSmall map

Today

The view today
The view in March 2010

In 1867 the column in front of the church was hit by a carriage and it fell and broke into many pieces; two years later Pope Pius IX replaced it with a small monument to Sts. John, Francis, Bartholomew and Paulinus of Nola which was meant to celebrate the beginning of the First Vatican Council.
In the late XIXth century the buildings to the right of S. Bartolomeo all'Isola were pulled down to enlarge the river bed and reduce the risk of floods.

S. Bartolomeo all'Isola

S. Bartolomeo
(left) Façade; (right) bell tower

According to the traditional account in 293 BC a temple to Aesculapius was built on Isola Tiberina on the site where a snake brought from the god's shrine at Epidaurus, hid itself; at that time the Romans were increasing their links with Greece and introducing new gods in their religion.
A church which made use of some structures of the temple was built in ca 1000 by Emperor Otto III to house an arm of St. Adalbert of Prague, his friend and adviser, who died while trying to convert the Baltic Prussians; the church was also dedicated to St. Bartholomew and other martyrs.
The bell tower was built at the beginning of the XIIth century and in the following century the church was embellished with mosaics and a Cosmati pavement.

S. Bartolomeo
(left-above) An ancient capital in the oldest structures of the church; (right-above) medieval lion in the interior of the church; (left-below) inscription in the chapel of the millers' guild; (right-below) a cannon ball which hit a chapel in 1849

In 1557 a major flood destroyed one side of the church and its façade with the mosaics; for some time the building was abandoned and only in 1583 it was partially restored (you may wish to see it in a 1588 Guide to Rome). In 1624 S. Bartolomeo all'Isola was almost entirely rebuilt (perhaps by Martino Longhi the Elder). The owners of the floating mills of Isola Tiberina (which can be seen in plate 91) dedicated a chapel of the renovated church to St. Paolinus of Nola, their patron saint. In the XVIIIth century the Cosmati pavement was removed, probably because it was damaged by other floods.

S. Bartolomeo
Side view of S. Bartolomeo all'Isola; to the far left the remaining travertine wall which gave the island the appearance of a ship; the image used as background for this page shows a relief which is still visible in that wall

Monastero Francescano

Monastero
Franciscan Monastery

In 1513 Pope Leo X assigned S. Bartolomeo all'Isola to the Franciscan Order. The monastery included some medieval buildings, but its interior was redesigned in the XVIIth century. For a certain period of time the meetings of a brotherhood were held in the monastery. The brotherhood (Confraternita dei Devoti di Gesù al Calvario) took care of burying the bodies of the drowned; its members were known as Sacconi Rossi after the large red habits worn by its members. Every year on All Souls' Day they went in procession to the tip of the island (opposite Ponte Rotto) where they threw a wreath into the river in memory of the drowned whose bodies were never found.

Torre Caetani

Torre Caetani
(left) Torre Caetani; (right) ancient reliefs and capitals on its walls

The medieval tower shown above was part of a larger fortification which for a period of time belonged to the Pierleoni, who controlled the passage through the island (see their nearby houses). It was acquired by the Caetani, the family of Pope Boniface VIII. In 1638 the tower became part of the monastery; its side facing the river was embellished with fragments of capitals and reliefs.

S. Gregorio

S. Gregorio al ponte
(left) Façade; (right) Crucifixion by Etienne Parrocel

According to tradition a medieval church was built on the house were St. Gregory the Great was born; as a matter of fact the ancient walls which have been unearthed under the current building were part of Teatro di Marcello. In 1555 when Pope Paul IV forced the Jews to live inside the Ghetto, S. Gregorio a Ponte Quattro Capi acquired importance because it was located immediately outside one of the two main gates of the Ghetto; the Jews had to attend masses or to listen to sermons inside the church.
In the XVIIIth century S. Gregorio was redesigned by Filippo Barigioni; according to Luisa Scalabroni (Giuseppe Vasi 1710-82 - Multigrafica Ed. - Roma 1981) Giuseppe Vasi was buried in this church, although his son Mariano put his portrait and an inscription celebrating him in S. Caterina della Ruota.

S. Gregorio al ponte (2)
Inscription quoting a sentence of Isaiah 65: "I have spread out my hands all the day unto a rebellious people, which walketh in a way that was not good, after their own thoughts. A people that provoketh me to anger continually to my face (King James Version)". In origin the inscription was painted, but in 1858 Pope Pius IX had it engraved on marble.


Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:


Chiesa e Convento di s. Bartolommeo all'isola
Da principio fu questa chiesa dedicata a s. Adelberto martire; ma poi nell'an. 983. essendovi dall'Imperatore Ottone III. trasportato, fra gli altri il corpo di s. Bartolommeo Ap., a questo fu dedicata. Risedeva quì nel palazzo contiguo il Vescovo di Porto, e come in sua Diocesi amministrava i Sagramenti, e però fu collegiata; ma poi nel 1513. essendo conceduta ai frati Osservanti di s. Francesco, questi convertirono il palazzo in convento. Nell'urna di porfido sotto l'altare magg. ornato con quattro colonne similmente di porfido si conserva il corpo del s. Apostolo, e nel pozzo incontro furono trovati i corpi di s. Paolino vescovo di Nola, di s. Essuperio, e di s. Marcellino confessori, con altri Santi. Nel piccolo chiostro si vede affissa al muro la lapide ritrovata nello scavare presso questa chiesa nel Pontificato di Gregorio XIII. la quale ha dato motivo ad alcuni dr dire, che s. Giustino martire abbia sbagliato quando asserisce, che in Roma fosse stata la statua di Simon Mago eretta da' Romani inter duos pontes: ma ciò è avvenuto perchè non avvertirono, che il sito chiamato dagli antichi inter duos pontes era quello, come dicemmo, che restava tra il ponte Sublicio e il Senatorio, e non questo fra li due ponti dell'isola. E’ certamente venerabile il sito intorno a questa chiesa; mentre quì presso si tiene da alcuni, che anticamente fossero le carceri pubbliche, vicine al fiume, ed in luogo più separato dalla Città, e perciò sicuro. Comecchè in esse erano poste le persone più vili, e di tal condizione essendo in quei tempi stimati i Cristiani da' Gentili, perciò furono santificate colla stentata, e penosa dimora, che vi fecero molti santi Martiri, ed in particolare s. Quirino, di cui trovasi fatta menzione negli atti de' ss. Mario, Marta e loro figliuoli Persiani, i quali venuti da paesi così lontani per venerare i sagri Limini, ed i luoghi santi di Roma, con una fervente carità, e viva fede andavano cercando e consolando i poveri Cristiani carcerati; e leggesi che vennero a questa prigione di Trastevere, e trovando in essa s. Quirino con molti altri fedeli, vollero fermarsi nella prigione per otto giorni, servendoli e lavando loro anche i piedi, con gettar quell'acqua per devozione sopra i corpi loro, e de' loro figliuoli. Questi dopo gli otto giorni, essendo andati a seppellire altri santi Martiri nella via Salara, quando ritornarono alla prigione, non vi ritrovarono s. Quirino; ed avendo inteso da un prete chiamato Pastore, che la notte era stato ucciso, e gettato nel Tevere, ma che il corpo era stato arrestato nell'istessa Isola, essi la notte seguente lo presero, e lo seppellirono nel cimiterio di Ponziano. Moltissimi altri simili fatti si leggono; ma per non prolungare più oltre il viaggio di questa giornata, a bella posta si tralasciano.
Chiesa di s. Gregorio della divina Pietà
Dirimpetto ai due portoni del Ghetto sta questa piccola chiesa, la quale essendo nel Pontificato di Benedetto XIII. riedificata, vi fu dipinto sopra la porta il s. Titolare genuflesso a piedi del ss. Crocifisso, e sotto vi furono posti alcuni versi della Scrittura, che rimproverano la perfidia ed ostinazione degli Ebrei. Fu conceduta questa chiesa alla Confraternita della divina Pietà, la quale ha per istituto di ajutare le povere famiglie civili.

Next plate in Book 5: Ponte Quattro Capi

Next step in Day 5 itinerary: Isola Tiberina
Next step in your tour of Rione Ripa: Isola Tiberina