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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.
Page revised in June 2010.

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Ponte Mammolo (Book 5) (Environs of Rome)

In this page:
The plate by Giuseppe Vasi
Today's view
Nuovo Ponte Mammolo
S. Francesco a Settecamini
Ponte Lucano and Sepolcro dei Plautii
Tor Cervara

The Plate (No. 81)

Ponte Mammolo

Vasi opened his book on the views over the Tiber with three etchings devoted to the bridges which crossed the Aniene or Teverone, a river coming from Subiaco and Tivoli and joining the Tiber north of Ponte Milvio. Via Tiburtina the road leading to Tivoli crosses the Aniene twice; Vasi chose to show Ponte Mammolo, the bridge nearer to Rome, although Ponte Lucano, the other bridge, offered a more evocative view because of a nearby ancient mausoleum.
In the description below the plate Vasi made reference to: 1) Via Tiburtina towards Rome; 2) Tavern and house of the guardian; 3) La Vannina (a farmhouse); 4) Via Tiburtina towards Tivoli; 5) Ruins of the tower protecting the bridge. The small 1920 map shows the sites of 1) Ponte Mammolo; 2) S. Francesco a Settecamini; 3) Ponte Lucano; 4) Tor Cervara.

Small ViewSmall View

Today

The view today
The view in June 2010

The ancient bridge, which already at Vasi's time was in a rather poor state, was so greatly damaged in 1849 during the events related to the Defence of the Roman Republic by Giuseppe Garibaldi that it was replaced by a new bridge a few hundred yards downstream.
The name of the bridge is usually thought to derive from Giulia Mammaea, mother of Emperor Alexander Severus, who restored it. Similar to Ponte Nomentano and Ponte Salaro it was damaged during the Greek-Gothic War and rebuilt and fortified by the Byzantines at the end of it.

Casale la Vannina
The Aniene River (left) near Casale la Vannina (right)


Casale la Vannina, the farmhouse shown in the etching, was not damaged by war events and it helps in exactly locating the site of the ancient bridge, the ruins of which are hidden by vegetation.

Nuovo Ponte Mammolo

Nuovo Ponte Mammolo
(left) Nuovo Ponte Mammolo; (right) celebratory inscription by Pope Pius IX highlighting the cost of the new bridge


A new bridge was built by Pope Pius IX, but it was purposely damaged in 1867 to prevent an attempt by Garibaldi to enter Rome; the current bridge is the result of later modifications.

S. Francesco a Settecamini

A little church
Via Tiburtina at Settecamini with two farms at the sides of the road and S. Francesco a Settecamini in the background (Osteria del Fornaccio is on the right side)

Today Settecamini is a modern borough of Rome along Via Tiburtina; its name (literally seven chimneys) is associated with the legendary martyrdom of seven Christian brothers by Emperor Hadrian in connection with the construction of its nearby villa. In the XVIth century the area belonged to the Cesi family who built a farm opposite a previous one; the farm became known as Osteria del Fornaccio as it housed an inn and a bakery. The Cesi had extensive possessions in Umbria; the property of Settecamini was eventually acquired by the Torlonia who in the last period of the Papal State owned almost all the countryside surrounding Rome.

A little church
(left) S. Francesco a Settecamini; (right) coat of arms of the Cesi at Osteria del Fornaccio; (inset) coat of arms of the Torlonia above the church entrance

A small but elegant baroque church was built in 1728 for the inhabitants of the farm and for the travellers along Via Tiburtina.

Ponte Lucano and Sepolcro dei Plautii

Ponte Lucano
Overall view

Via Tiburtina crosses the Aniene again a few miles before reaching Tivoli. The bridge is named after Lucanus Plautius whose family mausoleum stands immediately after the river. Giovan Battista Piranesi dedicated one of his etchings to Ponte Lucano (external link), but also many landscape painters loved this place (you may wish to see an 1810 painting by Filippo Giuntotardi - external link).
Unfortunately the location, which once was very picturesque, today is spoiled by the industrial development of the area between Rome and Tivoli; in addition recent measures aimed at preventing the Aniene from flooding have surrounded the site with a bank which makes it very difficult to reach Ponte Lucano.

Sepolcro dei Plauti
(left) Sepolcro dei Plautii; (right) main inscription


M. Plautius M. F. A. N. | Silvanus | cos. VII vir epulon., | huic senatus triumphalia | ornamenta decrevit | ob res in Ilyrico | bene gestas. | Lartia Cn. f. uxor. | A. Plautius M. F. | Urgulanius | vix. ann. IX, this long inscription is repeated twice and it says that Marcus Plautius Sylvanus, his wife Lartia and his son Aulus were buried in the mausoleum and that Marcus had been consul, septemvir of the Epulones (*) and was honoured by the Senate with the triumphal ornaments for having conducted well the affairs of Illyricum (**).
(*) Similar to Caius Cestius.
(**) A Roman province roughly corresponding to today's Croatia.

Ponte Lucano
(left) Inscription in the upper part of the mausoleum; (right) coat of arms of Pope Paul II

The mausoleum was built in the Ist century AD and it resembles in miniature Sepolcro di Cecilia Metella; it was turned into a small fortress in the Middle Ages.

Travertine quarries
Active travertine quarries near Ponte Lucano

Tor Cervara

Tor Cervara
(left) Tor Cervara; (right) Carnival of the Artists, sketch by Henri Regnault

Tor Cervara, a tall medieval tower near an abandoned tufa quarry on the Via Tiburtina, was the site of a carnival which was celebrated by the German artists living in Rome on the 1st of May, a day of joy across the Rhine, where they solemnized the new season. It was a sort of burlesque exhibition of pagan rites, to which most of the foreign artists gladly participated. It had its dignitaries, its militia, its corporations of musicians, of high priests, of cooks, of poets, of master of ceremonies all dressed up in grotesque costumes.
At daybreak the whole band went out by Porta Maggiore, and proceeded towards Tor de' Schiavi on the Via Prenestina, then the procession turned northwards to make its way to the grottos of Cervara. Asses furnished a heroic mount for the participants, they were harnessed in toys from Nuremberg and their riders were clad in garments which made them look like good-men of the woods. The day quite obviously ended with everybody getting drunk. German artists used to live near S. Isidoro in a street which for this reason is called Via degli Artisti. The tradition was lost towards the end of the XIXth century.
Henri Regnault (1843-1871), a young French painter, took part with his fellow German friends in the ceremonies. Little did he know then that he would lose his life in January 1871, in the war which broke out between France and the German States led by Prussia.

Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:


Ponte Mammolo
Quattro miglia lungi dalla porta s. Lorenzo si vede questo ponte, il quale secondo alcuni, fu edificato da Alessandro Severo, o da Mammea sua madre, da cui facilmente porta il nome, e corrisponde colla via Tiburtina. Sul medesimo Aniene è il ponte Lucano.

Next plate in Book 5: Ponte Nomentano
Next step in your tour of the Environs of Rome: Tivoli