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Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.
Page revised in June 2009.

To the Italian visitors of 
my web site

Porta Maggiore (Book 1) (Map A3) (Day 2) (Rione Monti)

In this page:
The plate by Giuseppe Vasi
Today's view
Porta Maggiore
Tomb of Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces
Republican Tombs in Via Statilia
Acquedotto Neroniano
The walls between Porta Maggiore e Porta S. Giovanni (including Anfiteatro Castrense)

The Plate (No. 7)

Porta Maggiore

The plate shows the fortifications built at various stages which turned a double triumphal arch into a fortified gate. The walls built by Emperor Aurelianus reduced the size of the openings of the arch; major changes were introduced by Emperor Honorius who built a new gate in front of the old one in the early Vth century; this was flanked by a high tower and by a smaller one which incorporated a funerary monument.
Maggiore in Italian means greater, but the name given to the gate is not related to its size; it is thought to be a contraction of Porta di S. Maria Maggiore because it allowed direct access to that basilica; others suggest it was a reference to Aula Majoris, a large hall of the nearby palace of St. Helena (today partly occupied by S. Croce in Gerusalemme). The gate was also known as Porta di S. Croce. Vasi thought its ancient name was Nevia, but this was a gate of the Servian walls and it was located on the Aventine hill.
The view is taken from the green dot in the small 1748 map here below. In the description below the plate Vasi made reference to: 1) Aqueducts of Claudius; 2) Via Labicana. The small map shows also: 3) Porta Maggiore; 4) Anfiteatro Castrense; 5) Republican tombs in Via Statilia.

Small ViewSmall map

Today

The Gate today
The view in June 2009

In 1838 Pope Gregory XVI decided to free the monumental arches of the aqueduct from later additions; the remaining fortifications were pulled down after the unification of Italy and in 1956 the ground was brought back to its original level.

Porta Maggiore

The Gate today
Triumphal arches celebrating the completion of the aqueducts seen from Rome

Three lengthy inscriptions describe the completion of the aqueduct by Emperor Claudius and its restoration by Emperors Vespasian and his son Titus. An interesting aspect of the inscriptions is that they show the coexistence of republican institutions with the growing power of the emperors.
In the first inscription Claudius was described as:
TI. CLAUDIUS DRUSI F. CAISAR AUGUSTUS GERMANICUS PONTIF. MAXIM. TRIBUNICIA POTESTATE XII COS. V IMPERATOR XXVII PATER PATRIAE ..
his name and the references to his family were followed by Germanicus, a title given to him for war victories, and by a series of "positions" he held in the frame of the republican institutions: pontifex maximus, tribune of the people, consul, imperator and father of the nation; the numbers say how many times he was tribune and consul or was acclaimed imperator.
The inscription for Vespasian starts as follows:
IMP. CAESAR VESPASIANUS AUGUST. followed by the reference to the positions he held.
Finally the inscription for Titus begins with:
IMP. T(itus). CAESAR DIVI F. VESPASIANUS.
In these cases the title of imperator was emphasized by being directly associated with Vespasian and Titus.
You can see more of the aqueduct of Claudius while making a walk to Porta Furba. You may wish to follow the steps of Ferdinand Gregorovius who started from here his walks in the Roman countryside or learn more about Roman inscriptions.

The old gate
(above) Vth century gate; (below) detail of the inscription with the names of Emperors Arcadius and Honorius

The upper part of the gate built by Emperor Honorius was relocated to the left side of Porta Maggiore. Historians set the split of the Roman Empire at the death of Emperor Theodosius in 395. His two sons (Arcadius and Honorius) ruled over two separate entities: the Western and the Eastern Roman Empires. The inscriptions on the gates built/restored by Honorius show that there was not awareness of this split because they make reference to both emperors.

The Baker's Tomb

The Baker Tomb
(left) Tomb of Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces; (right) reliefs showing details of Eurysaces' trade: (above) sieving; (centre) grinding; (below) weighing

The plate shows between the two entrances a small building. The restoration has isolated an interesting tomb, that of Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces and his wife Antistia. He was the owner of a bakery; it must have been an important one, because he described himself as a supplier of the state (in Britain he would have claimed to be a "purveyor to HM"). In his funerary monument he celebrated his trade: it is decorated in imitation of grain-measures and stock-holes and the reliefs represent activities of his trade (you may wish to see an ancient bakery at Ostia).

Republican Tombs in Via Statilia

Sepolcro Gemino
(left) Republican tombs in Via Statilia: sepolcro gemino; (right) portraits of the dead

In 1916 excavations made to enlarge a street found a series of funerary monuments of the late IInd/early Ist centuries BC. They were aligned along Via Caelimontana, a road which led to Porta Maggiore from the "Servian" walls of Rome, so when these tombs were built they complied with the Roman law which prohibited burials inside the city.
The most interesting one is Sepolcro Gemino (twin tomb) which is made up of two identical funerary chambers. We know from the inscriptions that the dead were liberti (freedmen) of important Roman families.

Acquedotto Neroniano

Acquedotto Neroniano
The aqueduct near Porta Maggiore (left), near S. Giovanni in Laterano (centre) and on the Palatine (right)

Emperor Nero built an aqueduct which branched off that of Claudius near Porta Maggiore and brought water to his Domus Aurea. It was extended to the Palatine by Emperor Domitian. It can still be seen at many locations between Porta Maggiore and the Palatine.

The Walls between Porta Maggiore and Porta S. Giovanni

Amphiteatrum Castrense
Amphiteatrum Castrense

Amphiteatrum Castrense is the most interesting monument of this part of the walls; it is a IIIrd century oval stadium which was used for training purposes by the Roman army or more likely by the guards of the nearby residence of Emperor Heliogabalus. It was entirely made up of bricks; even the half-columns and their capitals were the result of elaborate masonry. It was incorporated into the walls by Emperor Aurelianus and its porticoes were closed.

Amphiteatrum Castrense
(left) Detail of Amphiteatrum Castrense; (centre) tower with plenty of marble fragments (probably coming from the residence of Emperor Heliogabalus); (right) tower restored by Pope Paul V

Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:


Porta Maggiore
Fu questa piuttosto castello dell'acqua Claudia, che porta della Città, mentre i condotti di quella si vedono ancor oggi passare sopra di essa. Fu chiamata maggiore forse dal magnifico arco formato di grossi travertini, sopra cui sono tre lunghe iscrizioni; una di Vespasiano, l'altra di Tito, e la terza di Onorio, dimostranti il risarcimento fatto all'acquedotto dell'acqua Claudia. Due miglia lungi da quella si trovano le rovine della chiesa de' ss. Pietro, e Marcellino, eretta dal Pio Costantino, per dare sepoltura a s. Elena sua madre, e dicevasi inter duos lauros: oggi però, per la sua forma e rovina, dicesi Torpignattara, e perchè si conservasse la memoria de' detti Santi, e del celebre cimiterio riferito dalli Scrittori Ecclesiastici, vi fu eretta una piccola cappella, di cui ha cura il Capitolo Lateranense, e per ciò vi tiene un prete curato.
Teatro Castrense
Camminando poi appresso le mura, poco dopo la divisata porta di s. Giovanni, evvi una piccola cappelletta in cui si fa memoria di s. Margherita, e pochi passi dopo si vede dalla parte esterna delle medesime mura il teatro Castrense fatto di puri mattoni.

Next plate in Book 1: Porta S. Giovanni
Next step in Day 2 itinerary: Tempio di Minerva Medica
Next step in your tour of Rione Monti: Chiesa di S. Croce in Gerusalemme