Home

Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
What's New!

Detailed Sitemap

All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.

To the Italian visitors of my web site

Ferdinand Gregorovius' Walks - Genazzano

Genazzano is just a few miles after Palestrina and Gregorovius on seeing it from Via Labicana has the impression of watching a procession as if the houses were moving towards the castle of the Colonna on the top of the hill. Genazzano has only one gate which has some resemblance with those of Palestrina.

Gate and view of Genazzano
View of Genazzano and main gate

There is only one street in Genazzano going up towards the church of Buon Consiglio and the castle. The houses are very simple, only some gothic windows embellish them. On one of them there is a plaque commemorating the visits of Gregorovius.

Main street, gothic window and reference to Ferdinand Gregorovius
Main street, gothic window and reference to Ferdinand Gregorovius

The church of S. Maria del Buon Consiglio was (today a bit less) a famous sanctuary due to a sacred image which was miraculously moved from Scutari in Albania to Genazzano. Gregorovius attends the feast which occurs in September and he describes the costumes of the different peasants of the Roman Campagna. The popes used to make presents to the church: among them I noticed a finely embroidered chasuble, which was most likely started when Pope Innocentius X was pope and completed after his death, during the pontificate of Pope Alexander VII: this could explain why the design shows many doves (a reference to Pope Innocentius X), but the chasuble bears the coat of arms of Pope Alexander VII.

S. Maria del Buon Consiglio and embroidered chasuble
S. Maria del Buon Consiglio and embroidered chasuble

Pope Martinus V, the only pope of the Colonna family, was born in Genazzano and used to return there very often. He enlarged and embellished the family palace and his coat of arms is still visible on one of the walls. In the XVIIth century the palace was given a gentler look by Antonio del Grande an architect who designed also the great gallery inside Palazzo Colonna in Rome. The balustrade is decorated with other heraldic symbols of the family.

Main view of Palazzo Colonna and heraldic symbols
Main view of Palazzo Colonna and heraldic symbols

The back of the palace shows clearly the first purpose of the building which was a fortress.

Older part of Palazzo Colonna and churches in front of it
Older part of Palazzo Colonna and churches opposite the palace

The courtyard is very finely designed and it is embellished by a fountain. When Gregorovius visited it, he found many headless statues (today only one is left).

The courtyard of Palazzo Colonna
The courtyard of Palazzo Colonna

Genazzano did not have a street suited for having a little walk, so Gregorovius used to walk outside Genazzano going from the Colonna palace to the abandoned church of S. Pio. He walked along the ruins of an aqueduct built by the Colonna to supply the palace with water. In the church of S. Pio (in poor condition) I found a coat of arms of Pope Sixtus V.

Walk to S. Pio
Walk to S. Pio - the aqueduct

Gregorovius describes in detail the life of the peasants, oppressed by debts. The Colonna were entitled to receive a quarter of the yields and borrowing money was very expensive. He shows a deep knowledge of agricultural matters.

Immediately outside Genazzano in a little valley the Colonna built a small casino which they used for parties and games. The ruins have been restored and the site has some magic in it.

Renaissance Ninfeo
Renaissance Ninfeo


Next page

Introductory page on Ferdinand Gregorovius
Palestrina
Paliano
Anagni

Other walks:

The Ernici Mountains:
Ferentino
Alatri

The Volsci Mountains:
Valmontone
Segni
Norma
Cori

On the Latin shores:
Anzio
Nettuno and Torre Astura

Circe's Cape:
Terracina
San Felice

The Orsini Castle in Bracciano

Subiaco, the oldest Benedictine monastery