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Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.
Page revised in June 2011.

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Ferdinand Gregorovius' Walks - Cori
(detail of a fresco at S. Onofrio; this page is also part of Giuseppe Vasi's Environs of Rome description)

Ferdinand Gregorovius, a German historian best known for his studies on medieval Rome, spent the summer of 1860 at Genazzano with his friend Johannes Muller, a painter; the two decided to go on a ride across the Volsci Mountains to see the Pontine Marshes. The journey was described in an account (Aus den Bergen der Volsker) written by Gregorovius for a German paper (you can read the English translation by Dorothea Roberts in Bill Thayer's Web Site).

Porta Ninfina
(left) Porta Ninfina; (right) "Sipportica"

Cori was the journey's final destination and Gregorovius and his friend reached it from Norma, so they arrived at Porta Ninfina, the southern gate of the town. Here they saw a sort of summary of Cori's history: a) a sample of the ancient walls which supported the terraces above which the town was built; b) Sipportica, a covered medieval street, and c) Palazzo Chiari, a XVIIth century palace built on top of the Sipportica.

View of Cori and from Cori
(above) View of Cori from Porta Ninfina; (below) the Pontine Marshes (now reclaimed) seen from Cori Monte, the upper section of the town

Gregorovius described Cori as a pyramid of houses crowned by an ancient temple; the town reminded him of a passage in Virgil's Aeneid:

Tum gemini fratres Tiburtia moenia linquunt,
fratris Tiburti dictam cognomine gentem,
Catillusque acerque Coras, Argiva iuventus,
Book VIII - vv. 669-671
Two brothers next, Catillus and fierce Coras, Argive youths, forsake the walls of Tibur, its people called by their brother Tiburtus name.
(translation from an 1811 book for American students)

According to Virgil, Cori was founded by Choras, the son of a king of Argo, while his two brothers Catillus and Tiburtus founded Tibur (today's Tivoli). This legend is not the only one about the origin of Cori; they all have one point in common; they set the foundation of the town at a much earlier time than that of Rome.

Gregorovius was fascinated by the view of the Pontine Marshes where Virgil set many events of Aeneid and he quoted other verses of the poem in his account:

Hos super advenit Volsca de gente Camilla
agmen agens equitum et florentis aere catervas,
bellatrix
Book VIII - vv. 803-805
Beside all these came Camilla of the Volscian nation, leading a squadron of horses, and troops gorgeously arrayed in arms of brass; a virgin-warrior.
(translation from an 1811 book for American students)


Polygonal walls
Sections of the polygonal walls

Similar to other towns described by Gregorovius in this and other accounts (e.g. Alatri, Segni), Cori was protected by massive walls in opus poligonalis (polygonal masonry). Archaeologists have identified four types of such a masonry; those shown above belong to the third type which is characterized by stones which were cut, polished and aligned in order to obtain a smooth vertical surface.

Ponte della Catena
(left) Ponte della Catena, a Roman bridge near Porta Ninfina; (right) ancient Roman altar inside the church of S. Pietro

Ancient Cori was at times an ally or an enemy of Rome, but by the end of the IVth century AD it was controlled by the Romans; the monuments they built in Cori are mainly of the late Republican period, so historians believe the town lost importance during the time of the Roman Empire.

Pozzo Dorico
Piazza di Pozzo Dorico and (above) S. Salvatore and Tempio di Castore e Polluce

The use of massive walls was not limited to the construction of fortifications, but was required by the nature of the rocky ground in order to obtain small terraces. Although at first sight the wall shown above seems on the verge of collapsing, it has supported the weight of huge buildings for the last 2,000 years.

Tempio di Castore e Polluce
(left) Via delle Colonne; (centre/right) remaining columns of Tempio di Castore e Polluce

When Gregorovius visited Cori the remaining columns of a temple were incorporated into a house (you may wish to see them in an
etching by Giovan Battista Piranesi - external link); the front of the temple had six columns and the building was probably surrounded by other facilities, because parts of columns can be seen in the street leading to it.

Pozzo Dorico and Tempio di Castore e Polluce
Tempio di Castore e Polluce: inscription bearing also the names of the local magistrates who built the temple

Cori was plundered during the civil war between Silla and Marius (89-83 BC) and the temple was built after that period on the site of an older one. It was dedicated to Castor and Pollux, whom the Romans regarded as protectors of their republic and to whom they dedicated a major temple in the Roman Forum.

Porta Ninfina and Ponte della Catena
Cori Monte: (left/centre) steep streets leading to Cori Monte; (right-above) coat of arms of Pope Gregory XIV (very rare as he was pope only for ten months); (right-below) heraldic symbol of a local noble family

In the XVth century, when the authority of the popes was restored in the region, Cori was placed under the direct rule of the City of Rome, the municipal body residing in Campidoglio, to which the popes assigned some limited power in the maintenance of the city. A magistrate appointed by this body was in charge of the administration of Cori; thus the town retains only very few direct references to the popes and no references at all to the Roman noble families such as Colonna, Borghese, Barberini, Pamphily who had large fiefdoms in the region. Because Gregorovius was keen on describing the very miserable living conditions of the inhabitants of the towns he visited, the fact that he did not expand on this matter when talking about Cori, is probably an indication that the town was in a slightly better economic situation than the others.

Santa Oliva
Santa Oliva

S. Oliva has a very uncommon design as it is a combination of two churches; the oldest one is located near the bell tower; it was enlarged in the XVth century by adding a second church to its left. The complex stands on an ancient terrace built to support a temple. Saint Oliva of Anagni was a nun who lived in the Vth century; she is the patron saint of Cori.

Santa Oliva
Santa Oliva: (left) XIIth century section of the bell tower; (right) coat of arms of Cardinal Guillaume d'Estouteville

The enlargement of the church and the construction of a nearby Augustinan monastery was promoted by Cardinal Guillaume d'Estouteville; he was a supporter of that order and he built S. Agostino, one of the first Renaissance churches in Rome. In addition to being titular cardinal of Ostia he held the same position at Velletri, a major town near Cori.

S. Francesco
(left) S. Francesco; (right) 1676 wooden ceiling by Luigi Guarnieri

The Franciscans had their church and monastery on a small hill outside Cori, in line with the approach of the order which recommended modest architecture and decoration; the Franciscans however made an exception for the ceiling, an elaborate work by Luigi Guarnieri.

Acropolis and Tempio di Ercole
Tempio di Ercole and bell tower of S. Pietro

The most famous monument of Cori is a Temple to Hercules which is located at the very top of the town; it was studied by many Renaissance artists, including Raphael, and it was depicted by Giovan Battista Piranesi in two engravings: interior of the temple - external link and overall view - external link.

Acropolis and Tempio di Ercole
Tempio di Ercole

The reason for all this interest was in the use of Doric columns having the proportions (height versus diameter) of Ionian columns and in the fact that the front is slightly concave; the temple was built at the same time as Tempio di Castore e Polluce. It was eventually incorporated into the church of S. Pietro which was destroyed by bombings during WWII, with the exception of the bell tower.

Palazzo Riozzi Fasanella
Palazzo Riozzi Fasanella, a rare example of XVIIth century architecture in Cori

Gregorovius enjoyed his stay at Cori, not only for its ancient monuments: the air was fresh and balmy, the wine excellent and figs were sweet and cheap.


Giuseppe Vasi
Digressione breve e deliziosa

Per ritrovare alcuni luoghi celebri ne' contorni di Roma.

Città di Pelestrina
Non molto lungi da Velletri, fuori però della strada consolare, evvi l'antichissima città di Cori, edificata secondo alcuni da Dardano Trojano, e su una di quelle, che si oppose ai progressi de' Romani, onde in tal modo fu distrutta, che di quella li soli vestigj si vedono sparsi per quelle contrade, e appresso alla chiesa parrocchiale di s. Salvatore le nobili rovine di un tempio di Ercole. Risorta poi dalle sue sciagure sulla costa di un amenissimo colle, gode la giurisdizione del Senato e Popolo Romano.


Next page (in Giuseppe Vasi's Environs of Rome): Albano.
With the description of Cori, Gregorovius ended his account of the Volsci Mountains; previous pages: Valmontone and Montefortino; Segni; Carpineto; Norma
Introductory page on Ferdinand Gregorovius
Other walks by Ferdinand Gregorovius:
The Roman Campagna: Colonna and Zagarolo; Palestrina; Cave; Genazzano; Olevano; Paliano; Anagni
The Ernici Mountains: Ferentino; Alatri
On the Latin shores: Anzio; Nettuno and Torre Astura
Circe's Cape: Terracina; San Felice
The Orsini Castle in Bracciano
Subiaco, the oldest Benedictine monastery


Pages on towns of Latium other than Rome In the Duchy of Castro: Farnese, Ischia di Castro, Valentano, Gradoli, Capodimonte, Marta In Maremma: Corneto (Tarquinia), Montalto, Canino A Pilgrim's Way: Via Francigena: Acquapendente, Bolsena, Montefiascone In and about Viterbo: Viterbo, Bagnoregio, S. Martino al Cimino, Tuscania, Bomarzo, S. Maria della Querce, Bagnaia, Orte, Vasanello, Vitorchiano From Civitavecchia to Civita Castellana: Civitavecchia, Tolfa, Allumiere, Oriolo Romano, Capranica, Sutri, Bassano, Monterosi, Nepi, Castel d'Elia, Civita Castellana From Bracciano to Viterbo: Manziana, Canale Monterano, Vejano, Barbarano, Blera, Vetralla Around Monte Cimino: Ronciglione, Caprarola, Carbognano, Fabrica, Corchiano, Vignanello, Vallerano, Soriano The Bracciano Lake: Bracciano, Trevignano, Anguillara At the foot of Monte Soratte: S. Oreste, Rignano, Faleria Land of the Romans' wives: Montopoli, Poggio Mirteto, Casperia, Cantalupo, Roccantica Sentinels on the Highway: Fiano Romano, Civitella S. Paolo, Nazzano, Torrita Tiberina, Filacciano, Ponzano Along Via Aurelia: Palidoro, Palo, S. Severa and S. Marinella A Walk to Malborghetto: Prima Porta, Malborghetto Branching off Via Cassia: S. Maria di Galeria, Formello, Isola Farnese To Nomentum and beyond: Mentana, Monterotondo, Palombara A Walk to Ponte di Nona: ancient monuments along Via Prenestina Via Appia Antica A short and delicious digression: Tivoli, Montecompatri, Monte Porzio Catone, Frascati, Grottaferrata, Marino, Castelgandolfo, Albano, Ariccia, Genzano, Velletri, Nemi, Rocca di Papa, Rocca Priora, Civita Lavinia (Lanuvio), 
Porto, Ostia Where the painters found their models: Anticoli Corrado, Castelmadama, Vicovaro, Arsoli Subiaco The Roman Campagna: Palestrina, Genazzano, Paliano, Anagni The Ernici Mountains: Ferentino, Alatri The Volsci Mountains: Valmontone, Colonna, Segni, Norma, Cori On the Latin Shores: Anzio, Nettuno, Torre Astura On the edge of the marsh: Sermoneta, Sezze, Priverno Circe's Cape: S. Felice, Terracina Veroli Branching off Via Flaminia: Riano, Castelnuovo di Porto, Morlupo, Leprignano (Capena) From Tivoli to Palestrina: S. Gregorio da Sassola, Poli, Castel S. Pietro, Capranica Prenestina

Latium was enlarged in the 1920s with territories from the neighbouring regions: the map on the left shows the current borders of Latium; the map on the right has links to pages covering towns of historical Latium: in order to see them you must hover and click on the dots.

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