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Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.

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Ferdinand Gregorovius' Walks - Cori
(this page is also part of Giuseppe Vasi's Environs of Rome description)

Gregorovius and his friend Muller reached Cori from Norma, so they arrived at Porta Ninfina which still today looks very much medieval and provides a very evocative approach to the visit of the town.

Porta Ninfina and Ponte della Catena
Porta Ninfina and Ponte della Catena

A steep ravine outside Porta Ninfina is spanned by the Roman Ponte della Catena constructed of blocks of tufa, with an impressive arch. Cori is built on a hill with very steep streets leading to the top of it (the Arx or Cori Alta) and from there it offers a wide view over the Castelli Romani (Velletri, Genzano, Ariccia and Albano), the plain and the sea. This area was the set for the events narrated in Virgil's Aeneid.

View of Cori and from Cori
View of Cori and from Cori

The use of polygonal walls in Cori is mainly directed to making artificial terraces for streets and buildings. This is particularly visible in the wall sustaining the Temple of Castor and Pollux.

Pozzo Dorico and Tempio di Castore e Polluce
Pozzo Dorico and Tempio di Castore e Polluce

Of the temple, facing the abandoned church of San Salvatore, only two columns and part of the inscription are left, but it is enough to let us imagine how fine it was. The street leading to Cori Alta then reaches the church of S. Oliva, made up by pulling down the wall between two minor churches. This church and the adjoining building were erected on the site of a Roman temple and the bell tower, like a geological map, shows the different masonry techniques used over the centuries.

Santa Oliva
Santa Oliva

On the top of the hill the Romans built a Temple in honor of Hercules, which was later on included in a church (but after World War II only the bell tower survived).

Acropolis and Tempio di Ercole
Acropolis and Tempio di Ercole

The Temple of Hercules was studied by many Renaissance artists, including Raphael, and it was the subject of a famous print by Piranesi. The reason for all this interest was in the use of Doric columns having the proportions (height versus diameter) of Ionian columns.

Gregorovius liked Cori very much but not only for its memories of the past: the air was fresh and balmy, the wine excellent and figs were sweet and cheap.


Giuseppe Vasi
Digressione breve e deliziosa

Per ritrovare alcuni luoghi celebri ne' contorni di Roma.

Città di Pelestrina
Non molto lungi da Velletri, fuori però della strada consolare, evvi l'antichissima città di Cori, edificata secondo alcuni da Dardano Trojano, e su una di quelle, che si oppose ai progressi de' Romani, onde in tal modo fu distrutta, che di quella li soli vestigj si vedono sparsi per quelle contrade, e appresso alla chiesa parrocchiale di s. Salvatore le nobili rovine di un tempio di Ercole. Risorta poi dalle sue sciagure sulla costa di un amenissimo colle, gode la giurisdizione del Senato e Popolo Romano.


With the description of Cori, Gregorovius ended his account of the Volsci Mountains.

Next page (in Giuseppe Vasi's Environs of Rome): Albano.

Introductory page on Ferdinand Gregorovius
Other pages on the Volsci Mountains: Valmontone and Colonna; Segni; Norma
Other walks:
The Roman Campagna: Palestrina; Genazzano; Paliano; Anagni.
The Ernici Mountains: Ferentino; Alatri.
On the Latin shores: Anzio; Nettuno and Torre Astura.

Circe's Cape: Terracina; San Felice.
The Orsini Castle in Bracciano
Subiaco, the oldest Benedictine monastery