- Nettuno and Torre Astura

Ferdinand Gregorovius, a German historian who lived in Rome for 22 years, in June 1854 spent some weeks at Anzio; he described his sojourn there in Idyllen vom Lateinischen Ufer (external link with some drawings by Gregorovius), which he wrote for a German paper. From the inn where he was staying Gregorovius could see Torre Astura, an isolated small castle along the coast where in 1268 Conradin of Swabia, the last German emperor of the Hohenstaufen family, was betrayed and handed over to Charles I of Anjou; Gregorovius decided to walk to Torre Astura together with a German painter he had met at Anzio.

Nettuno

Views of the medieval burg and of its fortifications

Gregorovius and his friend first reached Nettuno, a small town three miles east of Anzio; it was located on the sea, but it did not have a harbour; its economy was based on farming. Nettuno was most likely built by inhabitants of ancient Anzio who fortified a temple dedicated to Neptune, which stood on the site of Chiesa Collegiata, the main church; the town was surrounded by walls with towers and a circular bastion built by Pope Urban VIII.

Medieval buildings
The medieval burg retains several picturesque buildings which reflect the various phases of the history of the town; in addition to the fortifications on the seaside high towers protected the gates on the opposite side.

(left) Palazzo Orsini Colonna; (right) coat of arms of Marcantonio II Colonna
In 1426 the Colonna acquired the fiefdom of Nettuno and retained it until 1596 with the exception of short intervals in 1501-03 when Pope Alexander VI confiscated the possessions of the Colonna and in 1556-59 when Pope Paul IV did the same. In 1569 Marcantonio II Colonna enlarged the family palace and strengthened its fortifications.

(left) Palazzo Orsini Colonna: heraldic symbols of the Orsini together with heraldic symbols of other fiefdoms which belonged to Nicola Orsini di Nola (1331-99); (centre) coat of arms of Cardinal Pier Donato Cesi on the bastion built by Pope Urban VIII; (right) coat of arms of Prince Camillo Pamphilj, nephew of Pope Innocent X, and his wife Olimpia Aldobrandini above the entrance to Palazzo Pamphilj
Prior to the Colonna, Nettuno belonged to a Neapolitan branch of the Orsini; Nicola Orsini supported Cardinal Gil Alvarez de Albornoz in restoring papal authority in Italy. In 1596 the Colonna sold their fiefdom to the state; soon after the Cesi, a family with several possessions in Umbria, built a small casino with a view of the beach and promoted the construction of a bastion at the eastern end of the town; their property was bought by the Pamphilj who enlarged it and retained it until 1834 when they sold it to the Borghese.

(left) Chiesa Collegiata; (right) painting on the main altar by Vincenzo Strigelli
At the beginning of the XVIIIth century many important Roman families built villas between Nettuno and Anzio; among them the Corsini, the family of Pope Clement XII, who in 1738 promoted the construction of a new large church which replaced a medieval one; it was designed by Carlo Marchionni, but during the construction some expensive details were omitted.

S. Francesco d'Assisi: (left) XVth century fresco by Maestro Petrus; (right) main altar by Andrea Sacchi
Interesting paintings can be found at S. Francesco, a small church immediately outside the fortified town.

Forte Sangallo
After having confiscated Nettuno, Pope Alexander VI and his son Valentino Borgia ordered the construction of a state-of-the-art fortress near the walled town, but not adjoining it; the design of the fortress is attributed to Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, who designed fortresses for the pope at Nepi and Civita Castellana and who strengthened Castel Sant'Angelo. The construction of the fortress was justified by the increased threat of Ottoman corsair raids; in that same period and for the same reason a fortress was built at a small burg near ancient Ostia.

(left) Detail of Forte Sangallo; (centre-above) coat of arms of Pope Alexander VI; (centre-below) coat of arms of Pope Alexander VII; (right) coat of arms of the Barberini Colonna (the radiant sun is a heraldic symbol of the Barberini, the family of Pope Urban VIII)
Several coats of arms show the interest of the popes in strengthening this fortress; the image used as background for this page shows the coat of arms of Pope Alexander VI.

Torre Astura

(above) View of Torre Astura from Nettuno (in the foreground the modern marina of the town); (below) Torre Astura and behind it Monte Circello (Circeo), the assumed home of sorceress Circe where Ulysses stayed for one year

The name of Torre Astura is associated with Conradin of Swabia, the last of the Hohenstaufen. In 1267, at the age of fifteen, Conradin tried to regain control of southern Italy, which his uncle Manfred had lost in 1266, after having been defeated at Benevento by Charles of Anjou.
Conradin, with limited resources from Germany and a few very young followers stayed for a while in northern Italy until Pisa provided him with support for his attempt. Conradin entered Rome, abandoned by Pope Clement IV who preferred to stay in safer Viterbo, and he received some additional help from powerful Roman families; in August 1268, near Tagliacozzo in the Abruzzo region, his army initially defeated the Angevins of King Charles; Conradin dispersed his forces to follow the fugitives, but Charles kept a group of cavalrymen as a reserve and threw them onto the battlefield at this point and won the battle.
Conradin managed to escape, reached Rome and tried to go back to Pisa by sea: in this attempt he came to Torre Astura, a small castle of the Frangipane, then a very important Roman family. Giovanni Frangipane at first was inclined to help Conradin, but the emissaries of Charles reached him and, after a few days of uncertainty, he handed over Conradin and his young friends to their enemy.
On October 29, after a mock trial, Conradin was beheaded in Naples; he was buried there in S. Maria del Carmine; because of his death at such a young age Conradin became an icon of the German nation; in 1847 a monument by Berthel Thorwaldsen was erected in this Neapolitan church by Maximilian, Duke of Bavaria (you may wish to see it - external link).
With this historical background in mind Gregorovius and his friend moved along the beach towards Torre Astura; in his account of the visit to Torre Astura Gregorovius wrote: The fate of young Conradin was not forgotten. Three centuries later it played its part in the memories of the German nation, and through the pictures of his execution distributed in Martin Luther's writings contributed to strengthen the hand of the Protestant Reformer in his struggle with the papacy, which did not fail.

(left) Torre Astura; (right) coat of arms of the Colonna

Torre Astura is very small: the tower goes back to the XIIIth century, the outer walls were built by the Colonna in the XVIth century; it rests on the ruins of an ancient Roman villa which are in part below the current sea level (Cicero had a villa in this location).

Ruins of a Roman villa
The fate of Conradin inspired many poets, including Dante; here below two XIXth century poems dedicated to the young emperor.

CORRADINO DI SVEVIA by Aleardo Aleardi (1856) Mutiam dolore. Sull’estremo lembo De la cerulea baia, ove i fastosi Avi oziar nei placidi manieri, Ermo, bruno, sinistro èvvi un castello. Quando il corsaro fe’ quest’acque infami, La paura lo eresse. Ivi da lunghi Anni una fila d’augurosi corvi É condannata a cingere volando Ogni mattin le torri: ivi sui merli, Fingendo il suono di cadente scure, La più flebile fischia ala di vento: Ivi pare di sangue incolorata L’onda che sempre ne corrode il fondo: Poi che una sera sul perfido ponte, A consumar un’opera di sangue, In sembianza di blando ospite stette Il Tradimento. Vuoi saperne il nome? O fida come il sol, tu che non sai Che sia tradire, deh! sègnati in prima Col segno de la croce, Itala mia. È il Castello d’Astura. Un giovinetto Pallido, e bello, con la chioma d’oro, Con la pupilla del color del mare, Con un viso gentil da sventurato, Toccò la sponda dopo il lungo e mesto Remigar de la fuga. Aveva la sveva Stella d’argento sul cimiero azzuro, Aveva l’aquila sveva in sul mantello; E quantunque affidar non lo dovesse, Corradino di Svevia era il suo nome. Il nipote a’ superbi imperatori Perseguito venìa limosinando Una sola di sonno ora quieta. E qui nel sonno ei fu tradito; e quivi Per quanto affaticato occhio si posi, Non trova mai da quella notte il sonno. La più bella città de le marine Vide fremendo fluttuar un velo Funereo su la piazza: e una bipenne Calar sul ceppo, ove posava un capo Con la pupilla del color del mare, Pallido, altero, e con la chioma d’oro. E vide un guanto trasvolar dal palco Sulla livida folla; e non fu scorto Chi ‘l raccogliesse. Ma nel dì segnato Che da le torri sicule tonaro Come Arcangeli i Vespri ei fu veduto Allor quel guanto, quasi mano viva, Ghermir la fune che sonò l’appello Dei beffardi Angioini innanzi a Dio. Come dilegua una cadente stella, Mutò zona lo svevo astro e disparve. E gemendo l’avita aquila volse Per morire al natìo Reno le piume; Ma sul Reno era un castello, E sul freddo verone era una madre, Che lagrimava nell’attesa amara: - Nobile augello che volando vai, Se vieni da la dolce itala terra, Dimmi, ài veduto il figlio mio?- -Lo vidi; Era biondo, era bianco, era beato, Sotto l’arco d’un tempio era sepolto.-

CONRADIN VON SCHWABEN (Nach der Chronik der Hohenstaufen. S. 492. by Ludwig Achim von Arnim) Als Conradin zu Jahren kam, Ein schnelle Sach sich bald vernahm, Er wollt sich männlich halten, Alle Erbländer nehmen ein, Die von den Aeltern eigen sein, Die wollt er frey verwalten. Daß er sie frey und eigen hätt Um Kriegsvolk thät er schreiben Im Königreich, Fürstenthüm und Städt, Da sollt niemand ausbleiben, Sondern ihm treuen Beystand thun, Bis er ein Heer zusammenbracht, Hat er kein Rast und konnt nicht ruhn. Als nun Papst Clemens solches vernahm, Der Sache bald zuvor auch kam, Thät auch ein Kriegsheer verschreiben. Und schrieb dem Grafen Karl gleich, Dem Bruder des Königs in Frankenreich, Er sollte nicht ausbleiben, Sondern Konrad wehren thun, Und alle Päß verlegen. Graf Karl thäts alsbald nun, Er zog ihm straks entgegen, Und machte durch Verrätherey, Daß er Neapel genommen ein, Eh Conradin noch kam herbey. Karl der schicket aus gar viel Verräther in geheimer Still, Sie sollten Sperl einnehmen, Denn Karl ließ gar viel darauf gehn, In Papstes Namen ists geschehn, Den Conradin zu dämmen; Der Papst verhieß ihm grosses Gut, Wenn er ihn möcht bestreiten, Derhalben hielt er gute Hut, Er ließ groß Gut erbiethen, So die Verrätherey gemacht, Die Steg und Weg daselbst er wußt, Da rückt er bey in tiefer Nacht. Conradin mit seinem Heer Auf die Nacht da einkehrt. Zu Morgens wollt er rücken Ja ins Königreich Neapel ein! Ließ ausrufen mit heller Stimm, Sein Red wollt er nicht zucken, Eh müß ihm drauf gehn Leib und Gut, Er wolle es drauf setzen! - Die Landsknecht sind nun wohlgemuth: Die Reis' soll uns ergötzen! Sie konnten sich nicht rüsten mehr, Hineinzurücken in das Land, Als schon der Feind vorhanden wär. Nun höret zu, wie es ergieng, Als sich der Schimpf mit Ernst anfieng, Die Schanz ward hastlich übersehen. Conradin hat gesiegt im Anfang, Da über die Beut die Ordnung sank, Da war der Schaden geschehen, Sie waren übereilet schon Von ihrem Gegentheile, Deshalb empfingen bösen Lohn, Ihre Haut war ihnen feile, Der Vortheil übergeben ward, Das Spiel, das war verloren schon, Vermißt ward ihnen hier die Kron. Es kostet manchen stolzen Mann, Der seine Haut wollt rücken dran, Zu retten seinen Herren, Und ihm ein treuen Beystand thun In Nöthen gänzlich nicht verloren, Mit Tapferkeit zu wehren. Es konnt damit doch nichts mehr seyn, Sie waren überlänget, Der Feind drang bald auf sie herein, Daß sie wurden zerdränget, Noch dennoch war ihr Herz so gut, Eh einer seinen Herrn lassen wollt, Vergossen sie ihr eigen Blut. O Jammer über Jammersnoth, Wie viel der Kriegsleut blieben todt, Noch dennoch ward gefangen Ihr Herr, für den sie Gut und Blut Daran gesetzt aus freyem Muth, Der must nun von hindannen Mit einem Herzog zu Oesterreich, Friedrich ward er genennet, Sie wurden beyd hinweg zugleich Geführet unzertrennet, In die Hauptstadt, die ward genannt Neapel von dem Königreich, Gefangen sassens in ihrem Land. Als Conradin gefangen war, Wurd er gehalten grausam hart, Mit samt dem Herzog Friedrich, Verspottet, jämmerlich traktirt, Zu einem Schauspiel umgeführt, Und was man konnt erdichten. - Den vorgen Tag der Held ging zu Durch Berg und Thal mit glänzendem Heer; Der Papst hat weder Rast noch Ruh, Vor Neid konnt er nicht warten mehr, Aus eitel Gift und grimmen Zorn Gab er Befehl, daß man sollt schnell Mit ihnen zum Gericht fortfahrn. Man führt herfür die Fürsten beyd, Wer hat gesehen solches Leid Bey Denken aller Zeiten, Da auf die Wahlstadt, die da war Bereitet ihnen also baar, Oeffentlich vor allen Leuten, Man schlug ihnen beiden ihr Häupter ab, Da war gar kein Erbarmen, Es must daran der junge Knab Mit seinen schneeweissen Armen, Als er alt war sechzehen Jahr, Durch den Papst Clemens den vierten Ist das geschehen offenbar.

Next step in Giuseppe Vasi's Environs of Rome description: Ostia.

Giuseppe Vasi Digressione breve e deliziosa Per ritrovare alcuni luoghi celebri ne' contorni di Roma. Anzio città antichissima, e Nettuno castello moderno Camminando poi per la strada sotto Albano, 40. miglia lungi da Roma, si trovano le rovine di quella città posta sulla spiaggia del mare tirreno, celebre appresso i Gentili, perchè in essa fu custodito con somma superstizione un libro, in cui erano scritte alcune opinioni di Pittagora. Prese quel nome da uno de' figliuoli di Ulisse e di Circe, e ne' suoi principj non ebbe porto, perchè i suoi cittadini erano tutti dediti alla magnificenza, e delizia della città; ma poi datisi alla navigazione, divennero sì periti e prodi, che per le scorrerie, che facevano sopra i Greci, furono ripresi dal Senato Romano, e poi essendo ricercati dà Romani, che prontamente prendessero le armi contro Annibale; furono fatti esenti dalle pubbliche gravezze. Quindi venendo più volte guasta da' nemici corsari, fu da Claudio Nerone suo cittadino ristaurata, ed accresciuta con superbi edifizj, e con un magnifico porto, spendendovi i tesori non solamente di Roma, ma anco di tutto l'Imperio, e poi Adriano alla magnificenza della città e del porto aggiunse l'amenità di una villa, onde Anzio era la delizia de' Romani. Fu altresì famosa quella città per li due gran tempj, uno della Fortuna, l'altro di Venere Afrodisia, e di Esculapio, per la cui fabbrica vi contribuì tutto l'Imperio, per compiacere l'ambizione di. Cajo Caligola similmente nato in quella. Dalle rovine di quella città sorse poi il castello di Nettuno per opera de' Colonnesi, e prese un tal nome, perchè eretto nel sito del famoso tempio di Nettuno, celebre appresso i Poeti, in cui da' viandanti si facevano frequenti sagrifizj di bovi, acciò avesse impedito il mugito delle onde agitate dall'impeto de' venti, e conceduto loro propizio il viaggio. Non molto lungi da Nettuno è il fiume Astura, celebre anche esso per un castello, di cui non resta alcuna memoria, che una torre, appresso a cui, secondo alcuni, seguì la morte di M. Tullio Cicerone, il quale volendo fuggire l'insidie di Marco Antonino, ivi fu sopraggiunto da Popilio ingratissimo uomo. Innoc. XII. rifece il porto incontro all'antico Anzio col disegno di Carlo Fontana, andandovi egli in persona per facilitare l'opera, e fu ricevuto e trattato dalle nobilissime famiglie Colonnese, Borghese, Panfilia, e Costaguti, perchè ivi fanno magnifici casini, con deliziose ville. Benedetto XIV. vi andò similmente per darci l'ultima mano, e fu trattato dalla Eccma famiglia Corsini, che vi ha un sontuoso palazzo, vicino a quello del Cardinale Alessandro Albani, i quali tutti meritano d'esser veduti.

Introductory page on Ferdinand Gregorovius
Other walks by Ferdinand Gregorovius:
Roman Campagna: Colonna and Zagarolo; Palestrina; Genazzano; Paliano; Anagni
The Ernici Mountains: Ferentino; Alatri
The Volsci Mountains: Valmontone; Segni; Norma; Cori
Circe's Cape: Terracina; San Felice
The Orsini Castle in Bracciano
Subiaco, the oldest Benedictine monastery



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