Home

Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
What's New!

Detailed Sitemap

All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.

To the Italian visitors 
of my web site

Sentinels on the Highway Fiano Romano, Civitella S. Paolo and Nazzano
(view of Nazzano)

Introduction

A physical map of Italy clearly shows that the easiest and shortest route between Florence and Rome would gain from running through the valleys of the rivers Arno and Tiber and the so called Val di Chiana, a depression between Tuscany and Umbria.
The Romans however discarded this option and linked Rome to Florence through Via Cassia, which crossed a hilly and even mountainous region. They did so because Val di Chiana and to some extent the Tiber valley were subject to floods and for this reason were marshy in some areas and pretty unhealthy.

In the XVIIIth century and in a more decisive way in the next century the marshes were reclaimed and the flow of the Tiber brought under control. So the layout of the XIXth century railway line did not need to climb the hills of Southern Tuscany, but followed the three valleys. In the 1960s a highway called Autostrada del Sole (Sun Highway) linked Milan to Rome and Naples, via Florence and its layout was parallel to that of the railway.

There are no major towns in the section of the Tiber valley north of Rome, but only fortified villages, so that when you reach Rome via the highway you see, on the top of the hills, towers and small castles, and you feel that they are sentinels reporting your arrival at the Eternal City.

Towns shown in this section
Small towns shown in this section

The easiest way to visit these small towns (starting from Rome) is to follow Via Flaminia, reach Prima Porta and then turn right on a road which runs over the hills next to the Tiber and is therefore called Via Tiberina.

Fiano

Views of the fortress of Fiano
Views of the fortress of Fiano

The layout of old Fiano shows a pattern which is common to all the locations shown in this section: there is only one fortified access to the town which is located on an elevated position which in general did not require additional defensive measures. Most of the towns belonged to the Orsini family, but were sold to other Roman families in the late XVIth century (the image used as a background for this page shows an Orsini coat of arms in the main church of Fiano).

Courtyard of the fortress; Orsini coat of arms; Inscription celebrating Marco Ottoboni
Courtyard of the fortress; coat of arms of the Orsini; inscription celebrating Marco Ottoboni

The medieval fortress of Fiano was embellished with two fine Renaissance loggias and a pensive garden; clearly the lords of Fiano lived there. The Orsini have left many signs of their long stay, including two small bears resembling a modern cartoon. In 1690 the fief of Fiano was acquired by Pope Alexander VIII, who gave it with the title of duke to his nephew Marco Ottoboni. The Roman family palace of the Ottoboni in Via del Corso was usually called Palazzo di Fiano.

Outside ...
Santa Maria ad pontem; tower of the walls; pomegranates

A stroll through the streets of Fiano shows other aspects of the past, including ripe pomegranates. This fruit was very popular in the past and because of its many allegorical meanings, it appeared in a variety of paintings: in the hands of an Austrian emperor to represent the diverse nations united by the empire or in that of Infant Jesus as a symbol of chastity and resurrection.

Civitella S. Paolo

The Tiber valley
The Tiber valley seen from the road between Fiano and Civitella San Paolo

The reference to St. Paul in the name of this small town is not due to religious fervour, but to the fact that Civitella belonged to Monastero di S. Paolo fuori le Mura.

Fortress of Civitella S. Paolo
Fortress of Civitella S. Paolo

The fortress has almost entirely retained its medieval appearance without Renaissance gentler additions. A drawbridge was for centuries the only access to the fortress and the town. The decoration of the gate is rather recent (XIXth century).

Roman reliefs and coat of arms of Abbazia di S. Paolo
Roman reliefs and coat of arms of Monastero di S. Paolo

The courtyard of the fortress is a sort of open air museum showing ancient Roman reliefs and inscriptions together with symbols of St. Paul.

Views of Civitella S. Paolo
Views of Civitella S. Paolo

Civitella retains some very picturesque medieval corners.

Nazzano

View of Nazzano
View of Nazzano

Nazzano is located on a hill directly overlooking the highway and even the most absent-minded driver cannot fail to notice its elegant tall fortress.

Fortress and gate of Nazzano
Fortress and gate of Nazzano

Here again there is only one (fortified access) to the minuscule town and a drawbridge led to the fortress. Nazzano belonged for centuries to Monastero di S. Paolo fuori le mura.

View of the Tiber from Nazzano
View of the Tiber from Nazzano

Nazzano enjoys very fine views over the many twists and turns of the Tiber. At the foot of the hill Nazzano had a small river landing point from which in the past vegetables and fruit were shipped to Porto di Ripetta.

Move on to Torrita Tiberina, Filacciano and Ponzano.


Pages on towns of Latium other than Rome In the Duchy of Castro: Farnese, Ischia di Castro, Valentano, Gradoli, Capodimonte, Marta In Maremma: Corneto (Tarquinia), Montalto, Canino A Pilgrim's Way: Via Francigena: Acquapendente, Bolsena, Montefiascone In and about Viterbo: Viterbo, Bagnoregio, S. Martino al Cimino, Tuscania, Bomarzo, S. Maria della Querce, Bagnaia, Orte, Vasanello, Vitorchiano From Civitavecchia to Civita Castellana: Civitavecchia, Tolfa, Allumiere, Oriolo Romano, Capranica, Sutri, Bassano, Monterosi, Nepi, Castel d'Elia, Civita Castellana From Bracciano to Viterbo: Manziana, Canale Monterano, Vejano, Barbarano, Blera, Vetralla Around Monte Cimino: Ronciglione, Caprarola, Carbognano, Fabrica, Corchiano, Vignanello, Vallerano, Soriano The Bracciano Lake: Bracciano, Trevignano, Anguillara At the foot of Monte Soratte: S. Oreste, Rignano, Faleria Land of the Romans' wives: Montopoli, Poggio Mirteto, Casperia, Cantalupo, Roccantica Sentinels on the Highway: Fiano Romano, Civitella S. Paolo, Nazzano, Torrita Tiberina, Filacciano, Ponzano Along Via Aurelia: Palidoro, Palo, S. Severa and S. Marinella A Walk to Malborghetto: Prima Porta, Malborghetto Branching off Via Cassia: S. Maria di Galeria, Formello, Isola Farnese To Nomentum and beyond: Mentana, Monterotondo, Palombara A Walk to Ponte di Nona: ancient monuments along Via Prenestina Via Appia Antica A short and delicious digression: Tivoli, Montecompatri, Monte Porzio Catone, Frascati, Grottaferrata, Marino, Castelgandolfo, Albano, Ariccia, Genzano, Velletri, Nemi, Rocca di Papa, Rocca Priora, Civita Lavinia (Lanuvio), 
Porto, Ostia Where the painters found their models: Anticoli Corrado, Castelmadama, Vicovaro, Arsoli Subiaco The Roman Campagna: Palestrina, Genazzano, Paliano, Anagni The Ernici Mountains: Ferentino, Alatri The Volsci Mountains: Valmontone, Colonna, Segni, Norma, Cori On the Latin Shores: Anzio, Nettuno, Torre Astura On the edge of the marsh: Sermoneta, Sezze, Priverno Circe's Cape: S. Felice, Terracina Veroli Branching off Via Flaminia: Riano, Castelnuovo di Porto, Morlupo, Leprignano (Capena)

Latium was enlarged in the 1920s with territories from the neighbouring regions: the map on the left shows the current borders of Latium; the map on the right has links to pages covering towns of historical Latium: in order to see them you must hover and click on the dots.