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Visit Rome following 8 XVIIIth century itineraries XVIIIth century Rome in the 10 Books of Giuseppe Vasi - Le Magnificenze di Roma Antica e Moderna The Grand View of Rome by G. Vasi The Environs of Rome: Frascati, Tivoli, Albano and other small towns near Rome A 1781 map of Rome by G. Vasi An 1852 map of Rome by P. Letarouilly Rome seen by a 1905 armchair traveller in the paintings by Alberto Pisa The 14 historical districts of Rome An abridged history of Rome How to spend a peaceful day in Rome Baroque sculptors and their works The coats of arms of the popes in the monuments of Rome Pages on a specific pope Pages complementing the itineraries and the views by Giuseppe Vasi Walks in the Roman countryside and in other towns of Latium following Ferdinand Gregorovius A Directory of links to the Churches of Rome A Directory of links to the Palaces and Villas of Rome A Directory of links to the Other Monuments of Rome A Directory of Baroque Architects with links to their works A Directory of links to Monuments of Ancient Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Medieval Rome A Directory of links to Monuments of Renaissance A Directory of links to Monuments of the Late Renaissance A list of the most noteworthy Roman Families Directories of fountains, obelisks, museums, etc. Books and guides used for developing this web site An illustrated Glossary of Art Terms Venice and the Levant Roman recollections in Florence A list of Italian towns shown in this web site Venetian Fortresses in Greece Vienna seen by an Italian XVIIIth century traveller A list of foreign towns shown in this web site
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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.

DON'T LET ME DOWN!

Days of Peace
(how to spend a peaceful day in Rome)

Veroli in Rome and in Veroli
(logo of FAI Spring Weekend and the apse of S. Maria Salome in Veroli)

F.A.I. - Fondo per l'Ambiente Italiano is a private trust founded in 1975 with the aim of acting for the protection of the Italian artistic and environmental heritage.
Every year at the beginning of spring they promote a weekend during which the public can visit monuments and sites which are not usually open.
The initiative is not restricted to the members of the association and no payment is required.

Queues
April 2008: people queuing along Via Giulia to see S. Maria del Suffragio (left) and Palazzo Farnese (right)

In 2008 550 monuments and sites in 240 locations throughout Italy were visited by some 500,000 people. In Rome the focus of the FAI weekend was on Via Giulia: for the occasion the private owners of Palazzo Farnese (French Embassy), Palazzo Falconieri (Hungarian Cultural Centre) and Palazzo Sacchetti (Sacchetti family) let the public visit their most interesting rooms. Several small churches which usually open only for Sunday mass were open for the whole weekend.

Veroli

Veroli
Views of the lower part of Veroli and of the River Sacco valley

In southern Latium FAI arranged guided tours of the main monuments of Veroli, a town with a very long history.

View towards the Apennines
View towards the River Liri valley and the Apennines

Veroli is located very near the old border between the Papal State and the Kingdom of Naples; the latter started beyond the mountains shown above. In the clickable map at the end of the page the territory of Veroli is the red area at the lower right corner of Latium.

The site of the ancient acropolis and the walls
Western side of the ancient acropolis (left) and walls on its eastern side (right)


Ancient Veroli was located on a narrow ridge at the top of a rocky hill: its eastern side was protected by "polygonal" walls of which there is still evidence in the lower part of the medieval walls. This construction technique was typical of the region and it can best be seen at Segni.
Veroli (Latin Verulae) was a town which allied with Rome so it had the status of civis foederata with the right to some form of self-government. During the Roman rule the centre of the town was moved from the acropolis to a less steep part of the hill.

Fasti Verulani
(left/centre) "Fasti Verulani" and a detail of January and February; (right) stones taken from Roman buildings to decorate a palace.


Memories of the Roman period can be found in the foundations of the town hall and of the Cathedral and here and there on the walls of later buildings.
Fasti Verulani are the fragments of a Roman calendar found in 1922. They cover the first three months of the year: the letters NP indicate a holiday such as the Lupercalia (February 15 - at the start of the second column). Minor celebrations were indicated by small inscriptions (first column - end of January - celebration of Castor and Pollux at their temple in the Roman Forum).
The calendar also showed the lucky (fausti) and the unlucky days: the latter were marked by "N" (example in the lower part of the second column). On these days the Romans avoided making important decisions. A recollection of this habit survives in some Italian says such as Di Venere e di Marte nè si sposa, nè si parte - Do not marry or start a journey on a Friday (It. Venerdì) or a Tuesday (It. Martedì).

Cathedral
Cathedral and its old rose window


During the Roman rule the lower part of the hill was terraced in order to build a small forum there. The Cathedral was most likely built upon the main temple of the forum; the façade was redesigned in 1706, but the rose-window belongs to the previous building (the coat of arms is of Pope Clement XI).
FAI placed an information point in the square opposite the Cathedral.

S. Leucio/S. Maria Salome
(left) S. Leucio; (right) S. Maria Salome


The fall of the Western Roman Empire and the dramatic events of the following centuries led the inhabitants of Veroli to rely again on their ancient acropolis for their security. A small fortress was built in the IXth century on the highest point of the hill; the major threat came from the Saracens who raided the coasts of Italy, but the fortress is mainly known because two popes (John X and John XII) were kept prisoners in it.
A small church (S. Leucio) was built near the fortress.
After the year 1000 Veroli gradually benefited from the general recovery of the country: in the XIIIth century a large church was dedicated to St. Salome, whose body was found in 1209. According to the traditional account she was the mother of St. James the Greater. The façade of the church was redesigned in the XVIIIth century.

S. Erasmo
S. Erasmo: (left) façade; (centre) decoration of the central arch; (right) apse

S. Erasmo is another large church built in medieval times (XIIth century) which was modified in the XVIIIth century; in this case however the old Romanesque features are more evident than in the Cathedral and in S. Salome.

Gates
(left) Porta S. Croce; (centre) Porta Napoli; (right) Porta Romana


The walls which surrounded the lower part of Veroli do not exist any longer but the gates have been preserved. Porta S. Croce retains its medieval aspect, while Porta Napoli and Porta Romana were embellished at a later period. Porta Romana was designed at the end of the XVIIIth century by Giuseppe Subleyras (1745-1819), the son of a French painter (Pierre Subleyras) who established himself in Rome and married an Italian miniature painter (Maria Felice Tibaldi). The gate is decorated with the coat of arms of the town and with the inscription S.(enatus) P.(opulus) Q.(ue) V.(erulani).

Bishops
(left) Fontana Quinones; (centre) a window of Palazzo Quinones; (right) entrance of the Bishop's Palace


In the VIIIth century Veroli became the residence of a bishop. In the structure of the Papal State this meant tribunals, schools, orphanages and other institutions. Veroli lost the bishopric in the XXth century and some of its inhabitants still resent that decision.
In the XVIth century Veroli had the privilege of being ruled by a cardinal: in 1528 Francis Quinones, a distant relative of Emperor Charles V, was appointed cardinal and governor of Veroli by Pope Clement VII in recognition of his efforts to promote a reconciliation between the pope and the emperor. He placed his elaborate coat of arms on a small fountain outside Porta Romana (you can see it in the image used as background for this page).

Olivella
(left) Santuario dell'Olivella (in the far distance: Alatri); (right) western side of the Cathedral


Veroli has some very picturesque sites and its monuments are generally well maintained.

Other Days of Peace pages:
At the Flea Market
A Sunny Day in Villa Borghese
At the Beach
Voicing Your Views and feeling better!
Eating Outdoors
A visit to Roseto di Roma
Christmas in Rome
Celebrating the Foundation of Rome
The procession of La Madonna de Noantri
Running the Marathon
Watching the Parade
Finding Solace at the Protestant Cemetery
Attending 2007 July Events
Rome's Sleepless Night
Attending Winter Ceremonies
Jogging at Valle delle Camene
Sailing on the River to see the Bridges of Roma
An October Outing to Marino
Attending a Funeral ...and enjoying it!
Embassy-hunting in Parioli
Celebrating Eritrean Michaelmas in Rome
Visiting Rome at Dawn
Visiting Rome in the Moonlight
Visiting Rome on a Hop-on-Hop-off Bus
Visiting Multi-ethnic Rome

Pages on towns of Latium other than Rome In the Duchy of Castro: Farnese, Ischia di Castro, Valentano, Gradoli, Capodimonte, Marta In Maremma: Corneto (Tarquinia), Montalto, Canino A Pilgrim's Way: Via Francigena: Acquapendente, Bolsena, Montefiascone In and about Viterbo: Viterbo, Bagnoregio, S. Martino al Cimino, Tuscania, Bomarzo, S. Maria della Querce, Bagnaia, Orte, Vasanello, Vitorchiano From Civitavecchia to Civita Castellana: Civitavecchia, Tolfa, Allumiere, Oriolo Romano, Capranica, Sutri, Bassano, Monterosi, Nepi, Castel d'Elia, Civita Castellana From Bracciano to Viterbo: Manziana, Canale Monterano, Vejano, Barbarano, Blera, Vetralla Around Monte Cimino: Ronciglione, Caprarola, Carbognano, Fabrica, Corchiano, Vignanello, Vallerano, Soriano The Bracciano Lake: Bracciano, Trevignano, Anguillara At the foot of Monte Soratte: S. Oreste, Rignano, Faleria Land of the Romans' wives: Montopoli, Poggio Mirteto, Casperia, Cantalupo, Roccantica Sentinels on the Highway: Fiano Romano, Civitella S. Paolo, Nazzano, Torrita Tiberina, Filacciano, Ponzano Along Via Aurelia: Palidoro, Palo, S. Severa and S. Marinella A Walk to Malborghetto: Prima Porta, Malborghetto Branching off Via Cassia: S. Maria di Galeria, Formello, Isola Farnese To Nomentum and beyond: Mentana, Monterotondo, Palombara A Walk to Ponte di Nona: ancient monuments along Via Prenestina Via Appia Antica A short and delicious digression: Tivoli, Montecompatri, Monte Porzio Catone, Frascati, Grottaferrata, Marino, Castelgandolfo, Albano, Ariccia, Genzano, Velletri, Nemi, Rocca di Papa, Rocca Priora, Civita Lavinia (Lanuvio), 
Porto, Ostia Where the painters found their models: Anticoli Corrado, Castelmadama, Vicovaro, Arsoli Subiaco The Roman Campagna: Palestrina, Genazzano, Paliano, Anagni The Ernici Mountains: Ferentino, Alatri The Volsci Mountains: Valmontone, Colonna, Segni, Norma, Cori On the Latin Shores: Anzio, Nettuno, Torre Astura On the edge of the marsh: Sermoneta, Sezze, Priverno Circe's Cape: S. Felice, Terracina Veroli Branching off Via Flaminia: Riano, Castelnuovo di Porto, Morlupo, Leprignano (Capena)

Latium was enlarged in the 1920s with territories from the neighbouring regions: the map on the left shows the current borders of Latium; the map on the right has links to pages covering towns of historical Latium: in order to see them you must hover and click on the dots.