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All images © by Roberto Piperno, owner of the domain. Write to romapip@quipo.it. Text edited by Rosamie Moore.
Page revised in August 2009.

To the Italian visitors of my web site

Chiesa dell'Archiconfraternita delle Stimmate di S. Francesco (Book 9) (Map C3) (Day 4) and (Day 5) (View C7) (Rione Pigna) and (Rione Sant'Eustachio)

In this page:
 The plate by Giuseppe Vasi
 Today's view
 SS. Stimmate di S. Francesco
 Palazzo Strozzi
 Collegio Calasanzio
 S. Nicola de' Cesarini and Area Sacra
 Teatro Argentina
 Casa del Burcardo

The Plate (No. 179)

Chiesa dell'Archiconfraternita delle Stimmate di S. Francesco

"Roma ha ancora i suoi orrendi e scomodi vicoli nel più bell'abitato, e dove il concorso è maggiore, a Campo Marzio, alla Minerva, al Panteon, a Fontana di Trevi, a S. Andrea della Valle, e dove richieggonsi strade più regolari, e più spaziose, ivi son rimaste più disagiate e più oblique e più anguste." (Rome still retains its appalling and uncomfortable narrow streets in the very centre of the city where the influx of people is greater, at Campo Marzio, Pantheon, Fontana di Trevi and S. Andrea della Valle. Where spacious and straight streets are more needed, there they are the worst of all). These words were written in Principj di Architettura Civile by Francesco Milizia, an art historian who lived in Rome at Vasi's time. Probably Vasi shared Milizia's views and he decided to greatly enlarge this very narrow street linking the Pantheon with il Gesù.
The view is taken from the green dot in the 1748 map below. In the description below the plate Vasi made reference to: 1) Palazzo Strozzi; 2) Palazzo Cesarini; 3) Collegio Calasanzio, once Palazzo Cenci; 4) Palazzo Amadei. The map shows also 5) SS. Stimmate di S. Francesco; 6) S. Nicola de' Cesarini; 7) Casa del Burcardo; 8) Teatro Argentina and in green Area Sacra. The dotted line in the small map delineates the border between Rione Sant'Eustachio (left) and Rione Pigna (right).

Small ViewSmall View

Today

The view today
Views in November 2008

The wishes of Milizia and Vasi were fulfilled in part in the 1880s when a large street (Corso Vittorio Emanuele) was opened to link il Gesù with S. Andrea della Valle. Palazzo Amadei on the left was pulled down and replaced by a much smaller building. Palazzo Strozzi was shortened too. In the 1920s it was the turn of Palazzo Cesarini (and in part of Collegio Calasanzio) to be pulled down. For these reasons the church can be seen much better from the other direction.

SS. Stimmate di S. Francesco

The view today
(left) Detail of the façade with the statue of St. Francis by Bernardino Cametti; (right) bell tower

The church was designed in 1714-1721 by Giovan Battista Contini and Antonio Canevari on the site of a previous one which was dedicated to Quaranta Martiri (Forty Martyrs) di Sebaste (this is the name used by Vasi in his map). It belonged to a brotherhood (Arciconfraternita delle Stimmate di S. Francesco) having the objective of helping the sick and burying the dead. A statue portrays St. Francis in the act of receiving the stigmata. The bell tower is surrounded by buildings and it can be seen only from a great distance.

Palazzo Strozzi

Palazzo Strozzi
(left) Old entrance; (centre/right) details

The Strozzi were a family of Florentine bankers whose residence in Florence is a masterpiece of Early Renaissance. The Roman branch of the family bought this palace opposite the church in 1649 from the Olgiati for whom the building had been designed by Carlo Maderno in the early XVIIth century. The pictures show the remaining original part of the building.

Collegio Calasanzio

Collegio Calasanzio
(left) Collegio Calasanzio; (centre) detail of the corner; (right) a madonnella


Collegio Calasanzio or delle Scuole Pie was a brand new building when Vasi made his etching as it had been erected in 1746. Josè de Calasanz was a Spanish priest who founded in 1597 in Rome the first school which did not require an admission fee. The members of his order are usually known as Scolopi, after Scuole Pie (pious schools). The architect Tommaso De Marchis made only one concession to the decoration of the building in the elaborate capitals and in the cornice. The elegant madonnella is a copy of Raphael's Madonna della Seggiola.

S. Nicola dei Cesarini

S. Nicola dei Cesarini
(left) Remains of the old church and of the temple; (right-above) relief portraying Atlas; (right-below) a Roman forica

The Cesarini were a very prominent Roman family for many centuries. The palace and the family church (S. Nicola dei Cesarini), were pulled down in 1929 to enlarge the street linking Corso Vittorio Emanuele with Via Arenula. The church was also called S. Nicola de Calcarariis, after the medieval workshops where for many centuries ancient marbles were turned into mortar.
It was known that S. Nicola dei Cesarini had been built on a Roman temple and that its cloister made use of the columns of a second temple, but the excavations led to the discovery of four temples in a sacred precinct (Area Sacra). The ruins of the temple upon which the church was built date back to the IIIrd century BC. The columns were made with tufa coated with plaster. The travertine columns on the right are due to a later period. There are traces of ancient frescoes on the walls of apses.
A small relief showing Atlas supporting the celestial vault is walled in a modern building at the southern side of the area. The Romans took care also of practical needs and the excavations brought to light a large forica (public latrine) which probably was part of Teatro di Pompeo.

Area Sacra
In the foreground Temple B (circular) and in the background Temple A (S. Nicola dei Cesarini)

The excavations, which also caused the pulling down of Palazzo Sonnino Colonna, led to unearthing a fine circular temple with tufa columns crowned by travertine capitals. It is thought that it was dedicated to Fortunae Huiusce Diei, the Fortune of Today, an indication of the importance of good luck in the beliefs of the ancient Romans. Because there is uncertainty about the names of the temples they are usually referred to with letters.
The site of the Roman temples houses a very large colony of cats: other cats live at Piramide di Caio Cestio.

Teatro Argentina

Teatro Argentina
(left) Façade: (right) detail of its decoration

In 1731 the Cesarini built a large theatre on a site next to their palace. The building was designed by Girolamo Theodoli, but the façade is an 1826 addition by Pietro Holl which reflects the impact of Neoclassicism on traditional baroque subjects (you may wish to compare the two personifications of Fame on the top of Teatro Argentina with those of Fontana di Trevi). It is now a drama theatre, but in the past it was mainly used for operas.
On February 20, 1816 the premiere of Almaviva by Gioacchino Rossini was a sensational fiasco, but at the second performance the public had a different opinion and Almaviva (later on called Il Barbiere di Siviglia) became one of the best known Italian operas. The theatre was commonly called Teatro Argentina and the whole area is similarly named (Largo Argentina, Torre Argentina). According to Vasi, this is due to the fact that a Cardinal Cesarini was for a while the bishop of Strasbourg (France), which in Latin was called Argentorate. When he returned to Rome he put over many windows the inscription "ARGENTINA" and this word in the end prevailed.

Casa del Burcardo

Palace of Burcardo
(left) Courtyard; (right-above) windows; (right-below) entrance

As a matter of fact the bishop was not a member of the Cesarini family. His name was Johannes Burckardt (italianized in Burcardo) and he arrived in Rome in 1479. He built a compact, tall palace where Italian and German elements are mixed. At his death the Cesarini acquired the building which was modified in the XIXth century. Today it houses a small museum and a library on the history of theatre in Italy.

Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:


Chiesa delle Stimate di s. Francesco
Era quivi un'antica chiesa dedicata ai XL. ss. Martiri, la quale circa l'anno 1595. fu conceduta alla confraternita delle Stimate; e perchè era molto piccola e cadente, fu rinnovata con magnificenza secondo il disegno prima del Contini, e poi del Canevari. Fra gli altri quadri è molto rinomato quello della Flagellazione alla colonna dipinto dal Cav. Benesiani nella prima cappella a destra: il s. Francesco nell'altare maggiore è del Trevisani, quello nell'ultima di Giacinto Brandi, e le pitture nella volta sono di Luigi Garzi.

....Poco più oltre si vede a destra il teatro di Argentina, ed incontro il
Palazzo Cesarini, e chiesa di s. Niccolò
Dalla nobilissima famiglia, che lo possiede, porta questo il nome, ed ancora lo da alla chiesa di s. Niccolò, che li sta in seno, anticamente detta delle calcare, come interpetrano alcuni delle calcare di calce, che ivi si facevano de' marmi del magnifico portico di Gneo Ottaviano console, che quivi era, ornato di colonne con capitelli di metallo.
Fu questa conceduta ai Chierici Somaschi l'an. 1695. in ricompensa di quella, che avevano sul monte Citorio, demolita per la fabbrica della Curia Innocenziana. Incontro a questa fu eretto anni sono il collegio Calasanzio de' chierici Scolopj.

Next plate in Book 9: Monte di Pietà e Banco pubblico

Next step in Day 4 itinerary: Monastero di S. Chiara
Next step in Day 5 itinerary: Chiesa di S. Lucia delle Botteghe Oscure
Next step in tour of Rione Pigna: Chiesa del Gesù
Next step in your tour of Rione Sant'Eustachio: S. Andrea della Valle.